How to make a felted wool toy. Technique of felting toys from wool and felt

Felting is a very ancient art, products made from felted animal wool appeared long ago, several thousand years ago.

Only much later did people figure out how to spin, make yarn, knit, and then they got the fabric. We will do toy mouse wool dry felting.

Felting (Filz in German felt) or felting, or there is also the term felting, is the compaction of unspun wool, using special notched needles.

Due to them, felting occurs - entanglement of wool fibers and its compaction. There are many other articles on the site with examples of dry felting toys.

Fun not only for children, but also for adults - cute eared, mustachioed animals with beady eyes, and even in their own one-room apartment with windows and a door!

Beginners can quite master the rodents, the mouse mice are very simply and quickly made in a dry way with a felting needle. The house is a little more difficult.

Felting from wool ornaments - toys

First, a few ideas of the World Wide Web - what can be done using the method of felting or felting, it is possible to implement them even for beginners in felting.

You can just make a toy or a decorative figurine, or you can make not only a toy, but also an ornament for your beloved at the same time. Below are some examples of these small wool animal figurines that can be used as decorations.

A very cute pendant in the shape of an ermine, a sloth brooch (easy to make even for beginners), and two tiny brooches in the shape of a tiny owl and a teddy bear with a balloon. Draws attention, doesn't it?

For such toys (small size) very little unspun wool is required, especially if you use small old unnecessary balls as a basis. Usually they start doing felting after all with felting balls.

Dry and wet felting of wool - felting

Felting is dry and wet. Beginners always roll balls first. I already had the first experience of dry felting - I tried to make several identical balls.

First you need to tear off a small piece from the skein, roll it into a ball in your hand, then roll it with needles on the foam rubber until the ball is sufficiently compacted. Then I tried to make them wet felting in the washing machine. I took unnecessary tights, inserted balls into them one at a time, then tied a knot. I put the tights with balls along with the usual wash in the washing machine, added washing powder and started it.

After felting, the balls turned out to be even, and even so dense that after they dried, they could not be pierced with a needle - there was an idea to make winter beads, and now they are lying, waiting in the wings. I met pictures with beautiful multi-colored felted beads and felted ball earrings. To make earrings, you only need to glue the temples to the balls. By the way, the balls can be either one-color or several, two or more colors, they also look very good.

Recently I discovered another very interesting way of making felted earrings with my own hands. For a long time I have been staring in stores at such small (1.5 - 2 cm in diameter) spheres of spirally twisted wire for making jewelry with my own hands. Most recently, at a sale of summer clothes, I grabbed earrings with such spheres, inside each there were three pieces of indistinct color of small beads dangling. Instead of glass beads, I placed in spheres (they can be moved apart shortly and anything can be placed inside) along a large - almost the size of the wire ball itself - a felt bead of bright red color. It turned out great! I'll take a photo and attach it soon. There is already an idea to make similar beads in a set for earrings.

You may be interested in another very easy-to-make sheep figurine. Everything is elementary simple, and the result is very nice. The animal is good for a small gift, a nice souvenir for both an adult and a child in particular. It is warm, cozy and fluffy, it is pleasant to hold it in hands, children can take it to bed with them.

I was very impressed with the photos of felted mice, I decided to try it on occasion. And this case has come. First, I’ll show you what kind of mouse - the norushka ended up falling on the frame, serious, but with a forelock.

Materials needed for felting wool toys

  • Colored wool
  • felting needles
  • Felting sponge (or a thick piece of foam rubber)
  • Eyes (you can glue plastic or fill with wool of a different color)
  • Wire for frame
  • Unnecessary small balls of wool (we will save expensive unspun wool)

Needles for dry felting can be purchased separately from the holder. There are holders for several needles at once. This is convenient, there is a large felting area, then things go much faster than with one needle.

Foam rubber is needed so as not to prick yourself with sharp needles when felting, because you need to work quickly, you can accidentally pierce your finger. On it we will roll our toy mouse. There are some other special brushes for this, but I didn’t buy them - I used the most ordinary sponge for washing dishes, its foam side.

Mouse felting from wool

As a basis for the mouse's head, I used an unnecessary small ball of wool from some loose woolen product. On top, I began to roll white wool in a beige shade. The long nose is also a ball, only smaller. Ears - rolled about two circles on a sponge, first on one side, then on the other, so alternated. Before attaching the ears to the head, I made a small fold in them so that they had a natural shape.

After the head was ready, I started felting the body of the toy. Rather, at first I made the frame of their wire - the “spine”, two handles, two legs and a tail. At first, she began wrapping the frame with old unnecessary woolen remnants of threads, at first she did not pay attention to their color - black, burgundy, and in the end she found gray-beige and some shaggy white ones.

At first, the wire with threads wound around it looked very suspicious ... It strangely resembled a Voodoo doll. As the mouse “fatted” the situation improved, but now the handles of our mouse toy were very reminiscent of Freddy Krueger. :)

Light-colored threads were wound on the wire frame of the arms, legs and tail. Finally, I decided that the mouse was plump enough, and began to roll unspun wool over the winding of the frame.

When the body of the mouse was ready, I made a hole in the bottom of the head with an awl, poured some glue there, stuck a wire for the head, which stuck out of the mouse. I added wool to the neck of the toys, connected the head with the body by felting.

I didn’t find suitable black beads at home, I used purchased plastic eyes for toys. The wool was only this (almost white) and also red (remained after the first experience of felting balls). For the sake of the peephole, I also did not want to buy a black one for big money. After gluing the eyes, I made barely noticeable eyelids above and below each eye. Chubchik - this is so, indulged, so the mouse looks funnier.

The mouse is not quite ready yet, not even finished. I’ll probably change the muzzle too - I’ll make a nose and a mouth, I’ll designate fingers and toes, and I’ll also knit or sew some doll clothes for her - socks or slippers, a skirt, maybe a sweater with a scarf for the winter. Or maybe I’ll dump some kind of apple in her hands so that she has something to eat.

You may be interested in:

By the church holiday - Easter - you can knit such cute products from unspun wool using the dry felting technique.
Bright, multi-colored, they will greatly decorate your home along with other traditional decor elements such as bunnies, hens, chickens, whether it be embroidery, knitting or sewing.

By adapting the felted balls made by the method of dry and wet felting with unspun wool, you can make with your own hands such large interesting earrings as you see in the picture. For details on how to make such original earrings and what you need for this, read the article about felted earrings.

The cats are funny, very cute, they are made in St. Petersburg. Beads go for the eyes, and the holes in them serve as pupils, this gives the animals a comical expression. Made mainly on the frame, there are sitting and standing options. The mouth and nose on the muzzles are embroidered with a needle and thread, the fishing line serves as a mustache.

Felted wool warmer toys for beginners

Toys that are actually designed to warm the testicles for breakfast - a funny little kitchen accessory. You can make it in the form of some animal, here are examples of a black and white cow with a bell, a pink pig with a bow, gray sheep.

Today we have a guest post - a detailed and large master class Wool toy from felting master Inga! Suitable for those who already have basic knowledge and skills in dry felting.



Moiseeva Inga works wonderfully in the technique of felting, creates fabulous animals and little men from sheep's wool, many of her creations are in the genre of a felt portrait doll.

Member of the St. Petersburg Union of felt masters, participant and winner of many Russian and European exhibitions.
Coordinates In contact with, Shop


Text and photos provided by the author. All photos are clickable.

Be patient, in the coming days we will make a doll, and not a simple one, but a woolen one. Our hero will be the star of Soviet animation, the terrible and terrible Uncle Au.

I want to warn you right away that the success of our enterprise is guaranteed only if you already have three wonderful skills - needle felting, knitting and wet felting. I will not explain in my MK why a grinder is needed, when to change the needle from 36 to 38 and how to close the loops (it is assumed that you already know). If this is a dense forest for you, then I advise you to study MK for beginners, dozens of excellent MK from wonderful craftsmen are available right here and now, at the Masters Fair. And I, with your permission, will begin ...



For a toy with a growth of 18-20 cm, we need the following materials and tools:

- A small amount (15-30g) of wool for felting of different grades and colors:
beige or sand, thin
black thin
rough "boot" of any natural color
salt-pepper, (with a bias in "salt") to imitate gray hair, if you can't find it, use white
brown thin (merino 16-18)
- A small skein of thread for knitting (wool, acrylic) color brick or swamp, faded shades or melange
- Wire “Pipe cleaners”, sold in the tobacco departments of shopping centers at a price of 100 rubles per 100 pieces (there is also a small package) For lack of brushes - hard wire.



- Any plastic with which it is customary to work (fimo, paperclay, phytoclay, etc.) for sculpting an eye
– Acrylic paints for painting, dry pastel or shadows for tinting, plastic varnish
- The usual tools for felting dry and wet (needles, brush, backing, pimple, VSHM, etc.), small knitting needles number 3 or 4, glue Moment-crystal, awl, scissors, needle with a large eye.


Uncle Au has a non-standard figure (short legs and a tiny body with long arms and a big head), so I recommend printing his full-length image from the Internet and constantly monitoring the proportions.


We start making toys from the head. We roll the sand-colored wool quite tightly, getting a ball of the desired size. Schematically outline the location of future eyes, add additional volume in the lower part of the face (cheeks, chin) I immediately apologize for the quality of the pictures - photography and photoshop are not among my “wonderful skills”


We make sure that the back of the head is not too flat, and the forehead is not too small, if necessary, add volume.


Separately, we roll a large plum-shaped nose from the same wool. On its basis, we leave a bunch of untouched wool for attaching to the face. We remove the rest of the part to the final density.


Gently roll the nose to the face, masking the joints with pieces of fluffy wool. We add a little wool to the bridge of the nose, achieving a smooth transition from the forehead to the nose.


Ears are not visible on the printout from the Internet, but this does not mean that they are not there! Our Uncle is an ancient old man, so his ears must be large, dumpling-shaped. From two identical pieces of beige wool we form two symmetrical "dumplings".


We roll them off until cooked, leaving, as in the case of the nose, strands of untouched wool at the junctions.


We roll the ears in their rightful place, masking the connection with pieces of wool.


Let's take care of the eyes. We sculpt flat oval eyes from plastic, checking the shape and size with the printout. Next, we act according to the instructions for your type of plastic - bake or let it harden in air. I use self-hardening clay for realistic floristry, adding Zinc White oil paint to it. This clay needs a day to dry before it can be painted.

I advise you to prepare several pairs of eyes at once and then choose the most successful one. In addition, it will not be so scary to make a mistake when painting, you can even make a trial version.



Having chosen the most successful pair, we press each eye to its future location and with a thick needle we prick the contour of the orbit.


We evenly deepen the eye socket inside the contour.


Uncle has no eyelids, as such, there are only small pretty "bags" under the eyes. We take two identical woolen cakes, each one is slightly rolled in the center and folded in half, getting semicircular details. We round the thick edge of each detail and seal it with a needle.

For those who do not understand the process, I show in the following photos in more detail, using the example of one large detail (I repeat, Uncle Au needs two and smaller ones)





We roll the "bags" to the edges of the eye sockets.


Re-align the contours and the bottom of the eye sockets. It was at this moment that the soul of our future pet peeps out for the first time from a simple lump of sheared sheep's wool;)) do not miss the moment - "Uncle Au, nice to meet you!"


We paint the eyes, since this is done elementarily. With brown acrylic we draw an elongated oval of the iris, with black - the pupil (also slightly elongated). Let dry well and cover with plastic varnish.


While the eyes are drying, we make the final bow of the head. We grind the part of the face that will not be covered with a beard and hair.

We glue the eyes with Moment-Crystal glue.



Let's put the head to the side and take care of the legs. From two wire brushes we form a pair of internal leg frames. The length is controlled by our printout. We bend the upper end of the wire by 1.5-2 cm, this part will not be covered with wool, it will be needed to attach the leg to the body.


We wrap the frame with strands of fluffy wool - from the top to the middle of black, from the middle to the toe of coarse felt boots. At the border of two colors, the strands of wool will be tangled - let it be, later we will decorate the transition from black pants to gray felt boots.

If you use a simple wire, then fix the first layer of wool on it with glue. No glue is needed on the brushes.

And once again I remind you - there is no wool on the bent ends of the brush or wire!



We roll the leg to the desired density. Now our felt boots are more like a sock than winter shoes.


We make felt boots. We roll a long and wide strip of coarse wool (length \u003d leg circumference) on a brush, fold it in half lengthwise and roll it again.


If you want the appearance of very thick boots, fold the fold of the strip again.


We wrap the leg with a prepared strip, fasten and roll. We check the density of the heel and foot, if they are "liquid" - add wool. Bringing the final beauty.


We form a pair of hands and a pair of thumbs from beige wool. We roll them to a high density, leaving fluffy ends.


On the hand with a thick needle we pierce the “fingers”. We act on the principle of animation - cartoon characters always have 4 fingers on their hands (why - the answer is easy to find on the Internet :)). The brush is slightly bent, giving it a natural position.


We need one wire brush for both hands. We drip a little glue on its tip to fix it and press it against the “palm”, slightly moving it away from the middle.


We put a “finger” on top of the wire


We wrap the hand with fluffy wool and gently roll it off. We pay special attention to the joints of the finger and hand, the wire should not be visible in any case!


We perform a symmetrical hand on the other end of the brush.


Using a centimeter, we find and mark the middle of the wire with handles.


We wrap the free parts of the wire with wool, leaving about 1.5-2 cm from the center.


I advise you not to fall into unbridled economy, wrapping your hands with sliver or "creative waste". Let them be covered with long sleeves, but still, if someone looks under the sweater and finds there brown-green shoulders or a pale sliver belly - believe me, it will be sad. Of course, in large toys it makes sense to wrap the “stuffing” of waste wool with a top layer of high-quality, but in such a small work as our Uncle, such a “gameskin is not worth the candle”.


We take the next wire brush and twist the frame of the body out of it. We bend the upper end by 1.5 cm and in the future we will use it to fasten the head, with the second end, bent inward, we will fasten the handles.


We take legs. We fasten the ends of the wire free from wool to the frame of the body.


We wrap the lower part of the body frame with black wool. discard, add volume if necessary.


We attach the handles to the body frame, screwing them with the free end of the wire brush.


We wrap it with fluffy beige wool and leave it, leaving part of the wool untouched in the neck area.


With an awl we pierce a hole in the head, at the point of connection with the neck.


We drip a little glue on the "neck" end of the wire and stick it into the pierced hole.


We firmly attach the head to the body, using loose wool around the neck, adding more if necessary.


We change the type of activity, we take up the knitting needles. It is convenient for me to use a set of five knitting needles (for knitting mittens-socks) - I use three, you can take any knitting needles of a suitable number.

We knit a sweater in the “raglan with one cloth from the collar” method. You can knit in any other way, but remember - the large head and hands of the toy will not allow you to just put on / take off clothes, think over in advance the algorithm for assembling your sweater on the doll.

My sweater is knitted in garter stitch (all loops are knitted, the first edge is removed, the last is purl). Adding loops - any way you can, I use this simple



So, on knitting needles No. 3 or 4, we collect 14 loops.

1st row and all odd - facial loops
2nd row - chrome., * 1 person., 1 loop inc., 1 person., 1 loop inc., 1 person. *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, chrome.
4th row - chrome., * 1 person., 1 loop inc., 3 persons., 1 loop inc., 1 person. *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, chrome.
6th row - chrome., * 1 person., 1 loop inc., 5 persons., 1 loop inc., 1 person. *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, chrome.
8th row - chrome, * 1 person., 1 loop inc., 7 persons., 1 loop inc., 1 person. *, repeat from * to * 3 more times, chrome.



Now there are 46 loops on the needles. then the common fabric is divided into 4 parts and each is knitted separately, in turn.

Back - on the first 13 loops from the common fabric we knit 10 rows of garter stitch, while in the 4th and 8th rows we symmetrically add 1 loop at the beginning and end of the row. In the last row, cast off all 17 sts at the same time.

Right sleeve - on the next 10 loops we knit 16 rows, while in the 6th and 12th rows we symmetrically add 1 loop at the beginning and end of the row. On the last row, cast off all 14 sts at the same time.



Before - knit like a back

The left sleeve is knitted like the right one.

We cut the thread left after closing the loops, but do not fasten it tightly - you may have to knit or dissolve a couple of rows after trying on, since the density of knitting is an individual matter 😉

We steam the finished fabric.



We put our “Maltese cross” on the toy and first sew the seam along the raglan line at the back.


Uncle Au's sweater looks quite old and worn, so don't hide the seam too much, on the contrary, I advise you to bring all the knots out and even add two or three "decorative" ones to emphasize his grunge style 😉


Back to wool. On the “bald head” of Uncle, we mentally draw three lines from ear to ear - these are our lines of “hair growth”


Carefully separate thin strands from the salt-pepper combed ribbon (as in wet felting) and make a “layout” with a width equal to the length of the first dotted line.


Across the layout, in the middle, we place a small, slightly twisted strand.


We carefully transfer the entire layout to the head so that the transverse strand coincides with the first imaginary line. We attach this strand to the head, while fixing the hair.


We put the hair together. He's already cute ;)


Similarly, we increase the hair along the two remaining lines.


The same principle applies to facial hair.


Mustache:


Beard:


Uncle Au has such a thick mustache that only the lower lip appears to the viewer. We roll it from a small piece of beige wool and roll it under the mustache.


You can add a small short strand of gray hair just above the lip if the face appears "bald".


If any strand of hair is too long, in no case cut it with scissors! Pinch or tuck with your fingers. Uncle Au is not a Yorkie, a neat haircut is not his forte!!

But the old man will have to get acquainted with cosmetics. We tint with a hard brush with grated pastels of brown shades (or you can use dry eye shadow, it will be no worse). Referring to the picture from the Internet, we shade the nose, the upper eyelid area, ears, lip, temples and fingers. Don't be afraid to overdo it with tinting - in some episodes of the cartoon our uncle is so grimy that we can't keep up with him with our pastels.

And having tried in practice, you can move on to more complex forms. In this master class, I invite you to move forward in learning this interesting type of needlework using the example of a funny monster. By a similar principle, you can, of course, dump any other little animal or little man, using your own ideas and sketches.

Materials for dry felting toys

  • unspun wool of any color (it is better to use carded wool)
  • a small amount of wool of a different color to create a muzzle and decor
  • felting needles: No. 36, 38, 40 (according to international classification)
  • substrate
  • colored pencils or pastel crayons and a brush for tinting

Technique of dry felting toys

Like any other creative work, felting a figurine begins with an idea and its sketch. A simple shape can be started without preliminary sketching, however, when it comes to a figure that has more complex proportions and its own character, a sketch is indispensable.

When the idea is fully formed, we mentally divide it into simple parts. In my case, the head and torso of a fantastic monster are a single whole, and the limbs and decor will be rolled separately. Usually, the head and torso of the figurine are rolled separately if they are approximately equal in size or have a very complex shape.

In this master class, I will not dwell on either the choice of necessary materials or the stages of wool preparation, since these issues have been discussed in detail in previous articles.

We prepare the wool by dividing it in different directions until a completely homogeneous mass is formed. If you are felting from carded wool, you will not need much effort for this, however, for example, you will have to tinker with a rowing tape more. The amount of wool needed depends on the size of the toy you want and will decrease by several times in the process of work, which you should not forget.

The figurine of my monster has a pear-shaped shape, greatly expanded at the base, which gives stability to the whole toy. With a thick needle, we begin to dump the wool first into a round lump, gradually forming the desired shape with our fingers and moving on to a needle of medium thickness.





Remember that at this stage, your main task is not to perfectly level the surface, but to make the toy as dense as possible without any internal voids.

If in the course of work you realized that the resulting form does not quite suit you, you should not despair, since these shortcomings are quite easy to correct. For example, I decided to make a small belly for my monster. To do this, I will need to make a separate “cloud” of wool, having previously felt it quite a bit on the substrate. Gently attach the resulting overlay to the right place, falling with a needle for felting in a circle.

If the resulting shape suits you, we grind the surface with a thin needle. It should turn out homogeneous and smooth, despite the fact that it is still far from the final alignment, because our figure has yet to acquire limbs.

If the body and head are ready, we proceed to the creation of paws-handles, using the example of which we will try to master the study of small details in the felting technique.

It is very important to remember that when creating symmetrical parts (arms, legs, eyes, ears, horns, etc.), an equal amount of wool must be harvested at the same time! If you completely dump one arm, and only then try to remove the right amount of material for the second by eye, the chances of getting two identical limbs are small. Ideally, both hands should be felted in parallel, constantly turning and comparing the details with each other.

We make separate wool blanks for the upper and lower limbs of the monster and proceed to felting, not forgetting to leave loose wool feathers at the ends. It is with their help that the details will subsequently be attached to the body.





Please note that the paws can be more complex in shape than just two cylinders, it all depends solely on your original idea. For example, I made a monster with deliberately large palms, for which I felt the hand itself as tightly as possible, and added more wool in the ankle area.

When the workpiece has already acquired an average density, you can begin to work out small details. To do this, we need a thin needle and utmost attention.

Tip: it is better to outline the contours of small details of the muzzle or paws with a thin needle, and then work out all the bends and bulges with a thin needle with a cruciform section, which not only gives them the necessary hardness, but also evens out surface irregularities.

Having finished working on the upper paws, I wanted to give them a smooth bend, because the monster has yet to hold the mushroom in his hands. It is quite easy to do this: just bend the workpiece between your fingers a little and work it with a medium needle in this position.

The lower limbs of my monster are smaller in size, since they should not interfere with the figure to maintain a stable, "sitting" position. They are made in exactly the same way as the upper paws.





In total, we have a complete set of limbs, which should be securely connected to the body. We apply them to the main part, finding the most successful position symmetrically to each other. The paws can be secured in place with regular pins. We begin to roll one by one, walking with a needle in a circle and diligently straightening the fibers.

If a sloppy edge is obtained when connecting the parts, this drawback can be hidden by then adding a little wool on top and processing the joint with a thin needle.

If all the main details have firmly taken their places, and the surface has acquired a smooth and uniform appearance, you can proceed to the most interesting and creative part of the work - the design of the muzzle. I offer only one of the possible options for such a decor and I suggest, having mastered the technique, to experiment with the decor on your own.

The eyes of a toy can be made in many ways, the easiest of them is to glue beads or ready-made plastic eyes, which are easy to purchase at the store. You can, as in my case, make eyes out of multi-colored wool. To do this, you need to dump two not too dense identical balls and, using a thin needle, roll them to the muzzle.

There are also plenty of head options. You can make a monster comb along the entire back, big ears, horns or lush hair from cone-shaped wool blanks. I chose a fairly simple option, sticking colored balls to my head in the manner of small horns. Not too dense blanks are separately rolled on the substrate, and then fixed in place.

Tip: small parts can be attached or glued using Moment-Crystal transparent glue. In the latter case, it should be noted that the wool fibers that have stuck together can no longer be pierced with a felting needle.

In addition, you can always draw some details on the surface with a gel pen or felt-tip pen, but you should be extremely careful when doing this. You can combine several options at once, for example, I attached a convex tongue to the monster, outlined a smile line with a thin needle, and then emphasized the resulting relief with a black pen.

Another interesting and important technique for decorating wool figurines is tinting, which makes the forms more expressive. So, with the help of crumbs from pastel crayons and a dry brush or soft watercolor pencils, you can emphasize the muzzle, apply shadows between the fingers or style the hair. Pastel and pencil are easily eaten into wool fibers and will not rub off when touched.

Feel free to combine different shapes and decor options, experiment, giving your work a different mood, do not be afraid to decorate the figurine with drawings, sew beads, ribbons or buttons on it, because the more individual and original your creations turn out, the better!

Felting, felting, or felting is the oldest needlework technique mastered by man. With its help, you can create felt carpets, toys, clothes, as well as decorative items (panels, paintings), jewelry. There are several tricks and techniques based on this art.

You can only felt products from natural wool:

  • coarse (valenichnaya) dark and light sheep wool, combed (sliver), bleached, semi-thin, tow;
  • combed camel hair;
  • mohair or angora - the wool of angora goats, which has a silky sheen and softness.

Dry felting technique allows you to create dense fabrics from wool. Initially, people used the fleece of wild animals, and after the domestication of livestock, they used the wool of their pets.

For work, raw material fibers are used, which are mixed and deformed by means of a special needle with notches and notches made at an angle. Wielding a needle, the master entangles the fibers with each other, weave the layers of material up and down.

Using the dry felting method, flat (fabrics) and voluminous objects are made, the elements are connected to each other.

Necessary materials and some dry felting techniques

Felting a toy (for example, a mouse) or any other product from wool involves the use of a special tool that facilitates the work.

The main tool is a special needle, which can have a different shape:

  • triangles - such a device is used at the initial stages of working with the base, it is easy and quick for them to roll simple things;
  • asterisks - such a needle is effective at the finishing stages, as it allows you to perform delicate work;
  • a twisted needle with a working area inverted in a spiral - such a tool speeds up the work process and increases the adhesion density of the hairs;
  • crown needle (with notches at the end of the tip) - it is used to decorate products, create eyelashes and hair of toys;
  • forks - with a device it is convenient to carry out the smallest details and put them in the right place;
  • reverse needle, which is used for shaping hair and fur (it has notches in the opposite direction).

To simplify and speed up felting, needle holders are used, designed for a different number of working tools. You will also need a foam pad and wool. If a large product is planned, then the blanks are formed from cheaper raw materials - sliver, and the top layer is felted from higher quality wool.

Creating a toy by dry felting

Consider the process of felting nesting dolls using the technique of dry felting:

  1. They take a strand of wool that has undergone primary processing and fold it into the desired shape.
  2. With the help of a No. 36 needle, stabbing movements are made, compacting the base.
  3. Using thin white wool, form the face.
  4. Using tool No. 38 or 40, the base is rolled with colored raw materials, for example, wool dyed red.
  5. We compact the workpiece until it becomes solid and stops deforming.
  6. Using thin strands of yellow wool, the hair of a nesting doll is formed, the eyes with eyelashes are sewn with blue and black yarn, the cheeks are pink, the nose is beige, and the mouth is red.
  7. Using woolen strands of various colors (green, white, orange, blue, etc.), they decorate the scarf and dress of the toy.

Wet felting

Along with dry felting, there is wet felting, thanks to which it is possible to obtain dense flat fabrics, including large ones.

The method is noteworthy in that during operation the raw materials are moistened with water or a special solution and rolled by hand without using other tools.

Beginning of work

Preparatory work before felting is simple: you need to prepare wool, water and hands. Modern felting masters have at their disposal a wider arsenal of improvised means:

  • bedding for the finished product, such as a rubber or bamboo mat, bubble wrap;
  • spray bottle with water;
  • mesh, such as mosquito;
  • scotch;
  • polyethylene gloves to protect hands;
  • wooden rolling pin;
  • terry towel;
  • liquid or grated solid soap for the preparation of a soap solution;
  • wool.

The raw materials are chosen depending on the desired result: combed ribbon is used to create dense products (carpets, paths), semi-fine wool is used for felting hats and bags, fine merino wool, including yarn from threads, is suitable for making scarves.

How does the wet felting process work?

The process of wet felting step by step is as follows.

  1. A solution is made from water and soap, which is poured into a spray bottle for ease of use.
  2. A base, background and decorative layer (with a pattern) is laid alternately on the litter. Each bundle is overlapped, making sure that gaps do not form. The next layer of wool is placed perpendicular to the previous one. It is important to ensure that the thickness of the layers is uniform and more than 3-4 times of the desired fabric - the wool shrinks.
  3. Spread out wool is gently sprinkled with water, covered with a net and moistened with soapy water.
  4. They press the structure with their hands or a rolling pin (at the same time, you need to make sure that the strands that create the pattern do not move, the colors do not mix), remove excess moisture with a terry towel.
  5. They rub the canvas with their hands, moving in different directions, preventing the canvas from drying out. Perform work until the grid begins to move away, and the pattern does not mix.
  6. The design is turned over to the other side, covered with a removed mesh (if necessary) and continued to rub. The felt is ready when thin fibers, not strands, are separated from the whole piece.
  7. The finished product is rinsed with clean and warm water and not squeezed out, dried on a wire rack in natural conditions.

Finished goods

At any presentation or exhibition dedicated to crafts, needlework and various types of creativity, you can see felted toys. These products are not only beautiful, but also safe and hypoallergenic, because they are made from environmentally friendly raw materials. Toys can reach large sizes (in order to save money, they can be stuffed with less valuable wool or padding polyester).

Make wool toys step by step; the technique of felting such crafts is a bit like modeling from plasticine, clay or dough. First, the largest part is created, for example the torso, which is compacted to such an extent as to avoid deformation. The rest of the body is formed from individual balls - the head, paws, which are then dumped into a single whole or sewn with threads.

Another way involves the integral creation of the product. Last of all, they decorate crafts - put dots on the back of a ladybug, stripes on the head and body of a tiger, sew on movable eyes, buttons, etc.

Master class for beginners

A teddy bear made of wool, created using the technique of dry felting, is made as follows:

  • the base of a teddy bear of the desired size and shape is formed from a synthetic winterizer;
  • the workpiece is placed on a foam rubber sponge and rolled with wool of the desired shade using special needles (first they take a large tool, then a smaller one);
  • skeins of yarn are laid perpendicularly, completely covering the synthetic winterizer;
  • separately form the protruding part of the muzzle and attach it in place, attach ready-made or separately matted eyes, nose;
  • decorate the toy at their discretion (put on a blouse and pants, a dress).

A voluminous toy cannot be made using the wet felting method, and the flowers turn out beautiful. Such products can be used for brooches, hair clips, clothing decor. The process of creating a poppy is as follows:

  • a skein is torn off from thin red wool, folded in half and a rounded petal is formed (6 such petals are needed);
  • connect 3 petals, laying them with narrow ends on top of each other;
  • add some wool of similar shades - lighter and darker, as well as a little black raw material - for the middle;
  • carefully spray the workpieces with warm soapy water, cover with a film, press down and start dumping;
  • when the fibers interlock, the film is removed and work continues, correcting the edges of the blanks;
  • the product is covered with a film and rolled with a rolling pin 200 times on each side;
  • dumped petals are rinsed in warm water, lightly squeezed with a clean towel;
  • with a stick they shape the blanks, deepening the middle;
  • the resulting felt is impregnated with a solution of salvitose (1 tbsp. warm water with 1 tsp. salvitose) or acrylic varnish to fix the shape, then dry thoroughly;
  • separately, using a dry method, a poppy box is made of dark green wool, decorated with a thread, stamens are made from iris threads and microbeads;
  • perform the assembly - stack the tiers of petals, sew and distribute the stamens, attach the box.

Where to find patterns for felting toys and instructions

The secrets of felting toys from wool used to be passed down from generation to generation, along with a description of the technique and the sequence of work. Modern masters are happy to share their experience with each other.

Elizabeth Rumyantseva

For diligence and art there is nothing impossible.

Content

Felting (felting, felting) belongs to the old varieties of needlework. Felted wool products, created by craftswomen from all over the country, sell like hot cakes in stores. Step by step wool felting for beginners allows you to make unique items. Felting is the creation of crafts from wool by clutching and interlacing fibers in several ways. The modern art of felting includes: wet felting, dry felting, nano felting.

Features of felting wool

Before you start step by step wool felting for beginners, you need to find out what you need for this exciting artistic process. The first thing to order is any natural wool. The material is available on the shelves of specialized department stores and in online stores. What raw materials and tools are better to buy?

Crafts are often made from the coarse wool of a sheep or camel. As a basis for the product, it is recommended to buy a sliver - combed sheep's wool without awns. The stuffing, for example, of cat toys or slippers often becomes tow, and merino wool is suitable for decorating items. Felting cannot be done with a needle. Special tools come in different sizes (thin, thick and medium), various sectional shapes (crown, triangular, star). So, we get a set for felting wool for beginners and move on to master classes.

Wool felting workshops with a step-by-step description of the work

This section is for those beginner craftswomen who want to try their hand at felting. We will learn what a dry felting technique is, wet felting and felting with a washing machine. A detailed study of master classes will allow you to make products of absolutely any level of complexity: from small decorative details to clothing items.

Dry felting technique for beginners

For step-by-step felting from wool for beginners in a dry way, you need unspun wool (the best option is carded wool) and special needles with notches. Dry felting is the entanglement of the fibers of the material with each other, as a result of which they are transformed into felt. Felting by this method is carried out using needles with a triangular and star-shaped section. We prepare wool, felting needles, a thick piece of foam rubber and proceed to practice. Further:

  1. We put the material on the foam rubber, confuse it with a needle. The base of the craft is sometimes made of synthetic winterizer, covering it with wool on top.
  2. When working with needles, you should be very careful, because they are sharp. The needle must be held perpendicular to the craft. The process of creating any thing from felt begins with the use of a thick needle, which gradually changes to a thin one.
  3. Flaws in the form of irregularities on the art object are smoothed out using additional raw materials.
  4. Dry felting is voluminous souvenirs (badges, key rings), accessories (purse, bag, book bindings), felted wool coats, hats, felt boots and so on.

Wet felting

Wet felting wool on gauze is done using a warm soapy solution (some people replace it with liquid soap). On gauze, according to a pre-selected scheme, the material is laid out in pieces. The mixture is done as follows: grind a couple of pieces of soap on a grater, pour the shavings with two liters of hot water, mix well, wait 2 hours until the solution becomes thick. Next step by step:

  1. We spread the oilcloth on the floor or other convenient flat surface. We put gauze on top.
  2. Then we lay out the base, the background and the selected pattern on it.
  3. The threads are superimposed crosswise, in stripes. We make sure that there are no holes left in the canvas, and the layers of material lie perpendicularly. Their thickness should be the same.
  4. When the material is already laid out in accordance with the drawing, it is necessary to sprinkle water on the leg, cover it with a nylon cloth and grease it with soapy water. Remove excess liquid with a paper towel.
  5. The next stage is the felting of paintings, panels, toys or jewelry (brooch, beads) from wool. Wet felting of any product consists in manually rubbing the fabric in different directions.

Felting in the washing machine

Felting with a washing machine is one of the easiest and simplest methods for creating things from felted wool. We will need dense forms for deboning, which are wrapped in wool hairs and placed in a nylon golf (or part of ordinary nylon tights without holes, arrows). We proceed directly to the creation of felted crafts:

  1. The workpiece must be put in a laundry bag and placed in a washing machine. Pour detergent for washing woolen clothes into a special recess, set the cycle without soaking and drying. For best results, set the temperature to 50 degrees.
  2. When the machine finishes the washing process, we take out our finished felted thing. If you decide to use a deboning mold, it is best to remove it from the workpiece with scissors.

Where to buy and how much kits and felting wool cost

For every beginner needlewoman who decides to try herself in the art of felting, information on where to purchase all the necessary materials and tools for felting will always come in handy. Below are tables showing points of sale for felting and wool sets in Moscow and St. Petersburg. You will find everything you need for felting in the shops presented in the tables.

Name of shop

Cost of goods, rub.

"Felt"

Moscow, Malomoskovskaya street 10

30 to 800

"Needle"

Moscow, Akademika Yangelya street, building 6 building 1 shopping center "Kalach"; Warsaw highway, house 32; pr. Vernadsky, house 39.

St. Petersburg, st. Baikonurskaya, house 14, lit. A TRK "Continent".

150 to 750

"Three Coils"

Moscow, Dmitrovskoe shosse, 157, building 5

100 to 700

m. Lyublino, st. Krasnodarskaya house 57, building 3

50 to 800

Online shopping

Video tutorials on felting wool products for beginners

With the help of free lessons on felting, everyone will get a chance to learn how to felt unusual, beautiful and useful figurines of objects. Try felting toys out of wool, make flowers or beads as decorations. Learn how to create a bright beret, how wool felting of slippers looks like a master class. Treat yourself to your favorite MK for making an exclusive bag or a warm scarf.

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