Cattle leather with pull up coating. Brief description of skin types

Leather for special shoes is designed to protect feet from various environmental influences, as well as in production. Among the protective leathers for special footwear, leather for construction shoes, leather for hiking shoes, leather for safety shoes, leather for military shoes, etc. stand out.

Yuft leather. Yuft leather

The main material for the manufacture of special shoes is yuft leather. This is a combined tanned leather made from pork skin or cattle skin. Yuft leather has its own special functional characteristics and properties, which have good durability and environmental friendliness.

Shoe leather

Shoe leather has such a disadvantage as an indicator of aesthetics. That is why shoe leather is most in demand in the production of shoes for working in aggressive environments in production and outdoors, or for military shoes. Shoe yuft is a thick but soft leather with a very high fat content, highly impermeable due to its abundant fat content. Yuft leather is a waterproof material and has high wear resistance. But yuft leather is less elastic than chrome leather.

According to the finishing method, yuft leather has both a natural and artificial front surface, as well as with bakhtarma finishing, i.e. pile yuft. In terms of thickness, yuft leather can be thin, medium and, of course, thick. Yuft for shoe uppers is also distinguished.

Chrome leather - chrome tanned leather

Chrome leathers have a higher price, i.e. chrome tanned leather. As a rule, work shoes are made from it.

Chrome tanned leather is more resistant to the harmful effects of various acids and alkalis. Chrome leather has higher tensile strength. Chrome leather gets wet more slowly in humid conditions and dries faster. Another big advantage of chrome-tanned leather is that it has elasticity and softness due to the fact that the leather was tanned for an average of 10 hours in special rotating drums with chrome salts. Chrome-tanned leather is also more resistant to high temperatures, i.e. chrome leather is a very heat-resistant material. In addition, chrome leather looks more aesthetically pleasing in contrast to yuft leather.

Therefore, the more popular leather for special shoes is chrome-tanned leather.

ARTICLES OF SPECIAL FOOTWEAR

Nubuck is hydrophobic. Pull-up leather

Hydrophobic nubuck is hydrophobic leather, which has a polished front surface, and also has a writing effect and well-filled elastic organoleptics.

Thickness 1.8 mm – 2 mm, 2 mm – 2.2 mm.

Pull-up hydrophobic - hydrophobic leather, the front surface of which is also sanded. Pull-up leather has a fatty waxy finish. Pull-up is matte, and in places where this material for safety shoes is folded, a certain lightening of the surface is formed.

Thickness 3.2 mm – 3.6 mm

At production, hydrophobic nubuck and pull-up leather are tested for hydrophobicity for six hours. Hydrophobic nubuck and pull-up leather are usually used to make hiking and outdoor footwear.

Tulip

Tulip– leather for safety shoes, which has a natural grain surface. Tulip leather has a supple, matte finish and a semi-aniline finish.

Tulip is a material for work and safety footwear, usually used in the production of footwear in Russia. The Tulip article comes with small and large embossing.

Thickness 1.4 mm -1.6 mm, 1.6 mm -1.8 mm, 1.8 mm -2.0 mm.

Craft

Craft leather is used to make military shoes. During production, kraft is subjected to the necessary tests for hydrophobicity and other indicators.

Craft- This is hydrophobic leather also with a natural facial surface. Kraft leather is elastic, has a semi-aniline finish, a matte surface, and is ironed with a smooth roller.

Thickness 1.8 mm – 2.0 mm, 2.0 mm – 2.2 mm.

Flotter (flotter)

Flotter (flotter)– special leather that also has a natural grain surface. The floater has an emulsion coating. Flotter comes with a breakdown in crust. Flotter leather has a large embossing pattern. The flutter has a moderately shiny surface.

Flotter is leather, as well as craft, used for the production of army boots.

Thickness 1.6 mm – 1.8 mm.

Floyd

Floyd is also a material for military boots.

Floyd is leather with a polished surface. Floyd comes with an emulsion coating, without breakdown. Floyd leather has a fine embossing pattern. Floyd also has a moderately shiny finish.

Thickness 2.4 mm – 2.6 mm.

CrazyHorse(crazy horse)

Crazy Horse leather (crazy horse leather) is a leather item for special shoes with a velvety surface. Crazy horse leather is quite unique in its appearance thanks to special processing that combines impregnation with various moisture-resistant compounds, as well as sanding. Crazy Horse leather has the appearance of evenly worn leather. Crazy Horse leather darkens when wet, but when dry it returns to its original appearance. Crazy Horses also change color in places of bending or tension.

Thickness 2.0 mm – 2.2 mm.

Our company offers to buy all types of leather for special shoes in bulk. To do this, just fill out and our managers will contact you.

The aesthetics of leather processing has developed by leaps and bounds and is changing daily for the better. Thus, several methods of processing delicate natural material have proven themselves, allowing us to obtain true leather material under beautiful names: nappa, pull-up, plonge, buffalo, suede and other types.

One of the most common materials used for cutting leather jackets is, of course, nappa. Nappa– this is a noble, well-dyed uniform tanned leather with high plasticity, finely porous, pleasant to the touch and quite soft. Belongs to the category of semi-aniline type of genuine leather with special impregnation against dirt. It behaves perfectly when worn, and can be presented in a smooth design or with perforation, which looks very elegant in the finished item. Nappa products in the collection of women's leather jackets in the Viavalento showroom are presented with a matte and glossy surface, in a classic cut, semi-fitting type.

Lacquered nappa is usually called - cry, that is, genuine leather with a special varnish coating applied to the outer layer. Very elastic, dense and durable natural material, with high resistance to external factors. Due to its elegant appearance, it is ideal for sewing exclusive expensive shoes and leather goods.

Pull-up – this is natural soft leather with natural folds and small veins, expressive on its surface due to a special method of dressing the material. Belongs to the group of skin without protective coating. It looks slightly aged due to the different shades of the leather surface, however, it is impregnated with the necessary paraffins and treated with colorless aniline oils. Pull-up products are usually of natural warm colors, without additional perforation or stitching, so as not to hide the natural beauty of the animal’s skin. This natural look requires quite careful care, as it absorbs water or can be scratched when pressed.

An interesting type of leather dressing is plonge, the most delicate leather with a varied external texture and multi-faceted porosity, made mainly from European raw materials, is very plastic and easy to work with. Available in a wide variety of colors and almost always matte. Sewing leather jackets from plonge is associated with pleasure and a full-fledged turn of the cutter’s imagination, because the more pliable the material, the easier it is to create ideal and unique things from it.

Suede . Beloved by many, suede is obtained by peeling the leather, followed by sanding the split leather to a fleecy velvety state, without applying a protective coating. For the production of suede, the skins of goat, ram, cow, young pigs, deer, even chamois and antelope are used. Real suede, of course, must be from deer or elk skins, produced by fat tanning raw hides. The leather turns out durable, despite its softness and peculiar looseness, with low double-sided pile, and a light aroma of leather. Suede with the smallest pile height has the best properties; it is also considered the highest quality. There are a wide variety of colors for suede. The homogeneous matte pile is pleasant to the touch, it even seems that it warms the palm when stroking the skin. Products made from suede look noble, the fairly rich color attracts, and the velvet pile makes you close your eyes even to all the difficulties of wearing and caring for suede items.

Velours - cheaper polished leather, made from any type of defective leather on the front side, as a rule, from the skins of young cattle, pigs, and goat skins. Made by the chrome tanning method, this is an inverted leather with the underside of the bakhtarma - the pile is visible, with a smooth layer inside, unlike double-sided suede. Velor is non-porous, very monochromatic, leaves fingerprints when touched and does not smell like leather. It gets dirty and shiny more easily and gets wet quite quickly, so it is recommended to treat shoes with protective agents. However, it is very widely used in the headwear, haberdashery and footwear industries.

Nubuck – chrome-tanned leather sanded with fine abrasive particles, with a very fine-haired surface. For its production, young cattle skins are used. The absorbency is increased, so stains may remain after dampness. However, it is very soft and pleasant to the touch, breathes well, is very light and durable with proper care.

The method of leather dressing is very similar to suede - leather crack. Here, genuine leather is micro-polished, which helps maintain the strength of the material, and additional impregnation gives it a slightly glossy appearance. The unusual texture to the touch and long-term use have deservedly made it possible to sew excellent unique things from crack.

Buffalo - real cowhide with fine porosity and velvety, breathable, with a worn surface structure for real brutal things, simple cut and long-lasting wear. It darkens slightly in the finished product with everyday use, due to the absorption of open pores, but it is very durable. Leather jackets and raincoats made from it are status-conscious, calm, and seem to be inspired by the eternity of time.

By the way, there is also a type of dressing of leather material with the application of a thin polyurethane film on it - bykast. Such leather is very resistant to the influence of external factors and is especially resistant to sunlight, does not fade, and does not deform. There is no true animal pattern on the surface and it has a slightly plastic feel to the touch, but is easy to care for. It does not scratch and does not absorb water, that is, it is a type of leather with a protective coating.

In the Viavalento showroom you can also purchase a women's fur jacket Pony- an ultra fashionable material, noble, fine-pile, reminiscent of ivy fabric on a thin white base. This fur can be easily dressed, processed, sheared or even crimped and draped. Fur is like a second velvet skin, has high thermal conductivity, which allows you to sew from it, in addition to raincoats, jackets and vests, even summer clothes. Pony fur has a fairly rich range of colors. Absolutely black items made of pony fur shimmer in the light, creating beautiful reflections on the product. Our store presents a model of a shortened women's jacket with a small stand-up collar made of impressively stitched skins in full black.

A distinctive feature of any leather jacket is its versatility and consistency over time, and its prevalence simply has no boundaries either in fashion or among age restrictions. This is a trend in the culture of all mankind, improving from generation to generation, from year to year.

The outerwear store-salon “Viavalento” in Saratov presents to your attention a collection of exquisite leather items in the most modern cut styles, from materials of various textures and magnificent colors.

Currently, we are very actively purchasing goods from online stores. Often, a buyer is attracted by the price on sale; colorful photographs make them take out a credit card and pay for the goods. However, as popular wisdom says: “If you hurry, you will make people laugh!” In order to be guaranteed to receive a product of exactly the quality that the buyer expects, it is necessary not only to carefully study the product from the photo and fluently read the description, but also to have some theoretical knowledge that will help to avoid annoying mistakes and wasteful expenses.

Today we will talk about leather products, or more precisely about the material itself - leather. Man has been using leather in everyday life since ancient times. After one or another processing method, the animal’s skin could be used either as a fur product or as one or another type of leather. Clothes, shoes, equipment, covers and some parts for weapons, as well as some elements of military armor, were made from leather.

Leather is a strong and durable material. It has good protective properties, is elastic and durable with proper care. Aesthetically attractive, it can give things both a sophisticated elegant and a reliable, rugged appearance. The science of leatherwork has continuously developed and improved over the centuries. There are many methods of tanning and processing leather, about which a lot of specialized literature has been written. Like any other area of ​​human activity, leather production uses its own special terminology, which is also used in the description of goods in the store.

Genuine Leather

• Classic cattle leathers:

Cowhide ( Bull leather , Steerhide ) – very dense, tough, durable leather with a thickness of 2.5 to 5 mm. Durable, wear-resistant, practically insensitive to moisture. Used for the manufacture of haberdashery goods (bags, purses, backpacks, belts in ethnic, “country” and “crazy” styles), jackets, travel and special footwear (boots, ankle boots, boots), as well as decorative and gift items (from book bindings to key chains and hairpins).

An example of a leather jacket made from cowhide. The photo shows the thickness of the leather and its characteristic texture.

Buffalo leather ( Buffalo leather ) – the densest, toughest and heaviest of natural leathers with a thickness of 0.9 to 3 mm with a characteristic “coarse-grained” (or “crumpled”) texture of the front surface. Resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. It is used similarly to cowhide, but is much less common and more expensive. Very popular in the manufacture of jackets and accessories for bikers.

An example of a buffalo leather bag.

Cowhide ( Cowhide , neat " s leather ) – plastic, elastic, durable leather with an impressive natural texture on the front side. It accepts various types of dressing, processing and coloring well. Allows you to obtain a significant range of leather materials of various colors and textures, including elite and exclusive ones. It has a wide range of applications, including: sewing clothes, shoes and haberdashery, upholstery of furniture, upholstery and decoration of car interiors, residential and office premises, manufacturing of decorative and gift items.

Cowhide from the American leather company Horween.

An example of a handmade belt from cowhide. Product from the Japanese platform Rakuten.

Cow's skin (WITHow leather ) - durable leather, less thick and stiff than bovine leather. It has a pleasant natural texture and is wear-resistant. Used for the manufacture of haberdashery goods, outerwear, shoes and accessories in a moderate price range.

Women's bag made of cow leather. Mass production. China.

Calfskin ( Calfskin , calf , veal ) – thin, soft, flexible, silky to the touch leather, has a natural “breathable” structure, high strength and wear resistance. The characteristics, uses, and costs of calfskin vary depending on the age of the animals. Skin of dairy calves (up to 6 months) – opoek– drapes perfectly and holds its shape, has high elasticity and resistance to deformation. High-quality clothing and accessories are made from it. Skin of calves up to one year of age - outgrowth– thicker, less elastic and used for the manufacture of high-quality shoes, bags and other haberdashery products and accessories. The toughest and densest skin is that of calves up to 18 months of age. It is used both for the manufacture of high-quality shoes, bags, suitcases and various souvenirs, and in interior design.

Italian gloves Calfskin. Shop epauletnewyork.

• Classic leathers from the skins of domestic and wild animals:

Horse leather ( Horsehide , Horse leather ) – fairly dense, high-strength leather of medium plasticity, requiring quite a long processing time to achieve quality. Used for the manufacture of high-quality men's outerwear, hats, shoes, accessories, as well as natural upholstery and lining materials.

A modern replica of an American flight jacket from the Second World War from the company Aeroleatherclothing.

Some jackets made from such leather are recommended to be specially shrunk (much like a pair of raw denim jeans) and then broken in. If anyone is interested, here are the instructions.

Goatskin (Goat skin /leather) – delicate and soft, very thin and durable, has a unique wave-like pattern, is quite waterproof, retains heat well, is plastic and elastic. Used to make high quality, elegant accessories and lightweight outerwear.

Leather jacket made of goatskin from an American company Alpha Industries.

Deerskin ( Deerskin , Deer leather, doeskin , buckskin ) – elastic, durable, velvety, retains its shape well even with frequent changes in temperature and humidity. During the dressing process, it is treated with animal fats, retains heat well, and protects from wind and moisture. As a rule, it is used for the manufacture of men's shoes, briefcases, bags, gloves and other accessories, less often for sewing outerwear.

For example, here is a bag from an American company, known for its very attentive attitude to materials and details.

The characteristic texture of the material is visible here.

Sometimes deerskin, with the help of special processing, can, on the contrary, be quite tough. For example, Indian-made deerskin Parflech, is characterized as quite tough. Currently used for making accessories in ethnic style. Term Parflech It is also used for similar processing of elk and buffalo leather.

Moose skin (Elk Skin) – elegant, durable, silky to the touch leather, similar in properties to deer leather, but has a slightly more porous structure. Used for sewing men's outerwear and accessories.

This is what the details of a hunting jacket made of elk leather look like.

The use of elk leather in FBT moccasins from the iconic Japanese manufacturer Visvim.

Here you can see the texture of the leather and the hand stitching used by the craftsman.

Sheepskin - sheep skin (Sheepskin) – flexible, soft, elastic skin, with high extensibility. It is perfectly processed and retains its desired shape. It is considered one of the best materials for making high-quality fashion clothing, hats and accessories.

Men's jacket from the site amazon.co.uk.

Pigskin (Pigskin) – fairly thin and light leather with a characteristic large-pore texture. It accepts dressing and coloring well, but is not durable or water-resistant. Used for the mass production of inexpensive haberdashery goods, clothing, shoes, accessories, upholstery and lining materials.

Wallet made of pigskin. Area Ebay.

Case for penknife made of pigskin.

• Exotic leathers:

Crocodile skin ( Crocodile skin / leather ) – characterized by noble beauty, complex, time-consuming and labor-intensive processing, strength, elasticity, absolute resistance to moisture and dirt, and very high cost. Based on raw materials, properties and price, they are divided into: leather cayman ( Caiman skin / leather ) – more rigid and less durable; actual crocodile skin and leather alligator ( Alligator skin / leather ) . Footwear, clothing, haberdashery and accessories made of crocodile leather are made primarily by hand by the highest class craftsmen and adorn the collections of the world's leading designers.

Wallet made of crocodile skin.

Watch bracelet made of crocodile leather. Handmade by the Japanese manufactory KC"S.

Snake skin ( Snakeskin , Snake leather ) – smooth and elastic, with fantastic patterns and textures, strong, durable and perfectly resistant to various types of dressing, processing and coloring. The most popular leather python ( Python skin / leather ) And cobras ( Cobra skin / leather ) . Snakeskin is used to make shoes, clothing and accessories, giving even the smallest item originality and uniqueness.

Cowboy style wallet made of snakeskin.

Ostrich leather ( Ostrich skin / leather ) – dense, flexible, quite durable leather, has a very impressive texture of the front surface. One of the most popular materials in the collections of many famous designers. Used for the manufacture of shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items, decorative elements and interior decoration.

Ostrich leather gloves. The characteristic texture is visible.

Kangaroo leather ( Kangaroo skin / leather ) – plastic and springy, light and durable, has high breathability and hygroscopicity, perfectly retains its properties and shape in finished products. Used for sewing clothes, shoes, including sports shoes, haberdashery and accessories.

Hiking boots made of kangaroo leather from an American brand.

Shark skin ( Shark skin / leather ) – is considered the most durable among natural leathers, while being light and elastic. In its natural state it is covered with very hard and sharp scales, which are quite difficult to remove. Shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items and various accessories, decorative elements and souvenirs are made from shark skin.

Shark skin wallet, handmade. Japan.

Stingray skin ( Stingray skin / leather ) – has a very attractive fine-grained texture of the front surface, is very durable and difficult to manufacture and process, but is waterproof, resistant to dirt and does not require special care. It is used to make high-quality outerwear, shoes, haberdashery and accessories, decorative elements and even women's jewelry.

Iphone case made of stingray leather.

Methods of tanning, dyeing and finishing leather

Crust ( Krust ) - a general designation for dense leathers with a preserved natural grain surface, obtained primarily from the hides of cattle.

Such leathers undergo chrome or chrome-free tanning and are subjected to top or through dyeing. To protect from moisture, the front surface of the crust is treated with natural wax, while maintaining the natural breathability of the skin. Crust is used for the manufacture of shoes, haberdashery and office products, furniture upholstery, the manufacture of goods for riding (saddles, harnesses) and special-purpose goods (sheaths, bags, holsters, etc.). Products made from trust are durable; with prolonged use in places of bends and constant friction, they acquire a darker color (patination) and the effect of natural aging.

Vegan– crust tanned with substances of natural (vegetable) origin.

Both cattle hides and pig skins are used to produce the vegan product. Vegan is used to make decorative and gift items, accessories and household items in ethnic, “country” and “crazy” styles, elements of traditional costumes, goods for riding (saddles, harnesses) and special purposes (sheaths, game bags, holsters, etc. .) self made.

Smooth skin- a general designation for high-quality and elite leathers with a natural grain surface, obtained from calf, goat and sheep leather, the skin of young cows and bulls, in rare cases - from pig and foal skin.

The front surface of smooth leather is not processed at all or undergoes minimal refinement by spraying wax, resin or paint, sometimes using light dust embossing. Smooth leather is flexible, retains natural breathability, and, like crust, is prone to natural patination during use. They are used for sewing clothes and shoes of the highest class, making accessories, haberdashery and gift items, prestigious furniture, decorating and finishing interiors.

Aniline leather (Aniline leather ) – smooth premium leather, with a thin, non-pigmented protective shell applied to the painted surface. Poorly protected from external influences, most prone to patination.

Semi-aniline and aniline-plus leather ( Semi - aniline leather ) – aniline leather with additional coating of pigments and dyes. A little tougher and lower quality, however, more resistant to external influences.

Skin with corrected facial surface ( Corrected grain leather ) – semi-aniline leather, subjected to multi-stage processing until the front surface is perfectly aligned, applied with a polymer coating and light embossing. Tougher and lower quality than semi-aniline leather, but has reliable protection against moisture and dirt.

Nappa (Nappa leather ) – soft and elastic semi-aniline leather with a corrected grain surface with a thickness of 0.5 to 1 mm, made from sheepskin and cattle hides. The hides are subjected to double tanning and various types of additional processing to give various decorative effects. Nappa is used to make hats, outerwear and lightweight clothing, haberdashery, various accessories and decorative elements.

Velor leather) – soft and flexible leather with short, thick hair. Velor is made from dense, small skins of pigs and cattle, by chrome tanning followed by sanding the front or back side of the skin. “Front” velor is obtained by grinding the front side of the skin (merei), “bakhtarmy” velor is obtained by grinding the back side of the skin (bakhtarma). The front side of “bakhtarmy” velor is polished. Velor is not durable and resistant to moisture and dirt. Used for the production of outerwear, shoes and haberdashery. To increase water resistance and service life, velor must be subjected to additional processing, and products made from it must be carefully cared for.

Suede (chamois leather) – soft, thin, durable, well-stretchable velvety leather, with thick short pile without shine on both sides. Made from fat tanned leather, processed on both sides. It has a porous structure, perfectly permeates water and air, retains its shape and properties when wet and after drying. Suede is resistant to temperature changes and some caustic substances, and does not cause allergic reactions. High-quality suede is obtained from the feathers, skins of young deer, elk, goats and sheep and is used for the manufacture of clothing, linen, hats, light dress shoes, orthopedic products, various accessories and jewelry. From the skins of adult sheep and deer, technical and rubbing suede is obtained, which are used in industry.

Laika ( kidskin , dogskin ) – thin elastic leather of light pastel colors, with a perfectly smooth outer surface. Laika is made from both classic types of raw materials - the skins of lambs, kids, foals and dogs, and from non-traditional ones - the skins of cats and rats. The skins are tanned using chrome, chrome-fat or aluminum tanning. Despite its softness and tenderness, husky is quite durable and wear-resistant. It is mainly used for the manufacture of gloves, decorative items and jewelry, much less often in the manufacture of light footwear and haberdashery. Laika does not tolerate moisture well, and after drying it loses its shape and properties. Laika products require proper care.

Nubuck (nubuk) – exquisite leather with very fine pile on the front side, has a porous “breathing” structure, and fairly high strength. Unlike suede, it is made from denser cattle hides, subjected to chrome tanning and sanding only on the front side. It is mainly used for the manufacture of men's, women's and children's shoes and as a furniture material, less often for sewing outerwear. In order for nubuck products to last longer and maintain their appearance, they require careful care with special products.

Nubuck-oil (nubuk-oil) – nubuck with additional fat impregnation. It has a characteristic oily surface and a slightly vintage look, but is practically insensitive to moisture and is easy to clean. Shoes made from nubuck oil are more practical and durable.

Crazy (Crazy leather) - Exquisite leather with an elegant matte finish and a pull-up effect. Unlike nubuck, after sanding it undergoes a special stretching treatment and a wax coating. This treatment gives the effect of lightening and “floating” the color in places where the skin is stretched. It is also used for making shoes and as a furniture material.

Morocco ( Morocco leather) – high-quality, specially tanned leather, stamped and dyed in rich, bright colors. Made from sheep and calf leather, it is highly durable, resistant to dirt and mechanical damage, and has an elegant, rich appearance. Used for making stylish bags and accessories, decorative items and jewelry.

Split (Split leather) – natural leather material obtained by mechanical separation – sanding – of natural leather into layers, usually from 3 to 6 layers. Chromium and chrome-fat leathers of cattle and pigs are subjected to exfoliation. By lamination, the front, middle and back (bakhtarmyan) splits are obtained. Thin grain splits are used to produce high-quality haberdashery and photo leathers. Thick front and middle splits form split velor, used for the manufacture of technical footwear, workwear and for the manufacture of furniture leather. Small splits and trimmings are used to make glue and technical gelatin.

Shagreen (shagreen leather) – dense leather with a decorative convex-grained texture of the front surface made of untanned leather. It was made from the saddle cloth of horses and kulans and painted green. Nowadays it is made from sheep and goat skin. Used primarily for decorative consumer goods and as industrial leather.

Galisha (French galuchat) – shagreen obtained from the skins of stingrays and sharks, which have a natural granular structure. It is used to make shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items and various accessories, decorative elements and souvenirs.

Kid (fr. chevreau, English . kidskin ) – soft, light, dense leather with a peculiar wavy pattern on the front surface. Traditionally, chevreau was made from thin chrome-tanned dairy goat skins and had properties similar to husky. Nowadays it is made from sheep, lamb and calf skins. Chevro is inelastic, waterproof and breathable. Due to its protective properties, it is one of the best materials for sewing shoes. It is also used to make various haberdashery items, decorative elements and souvenirs.

Chevrette (Chevrette leather) - elastic, viscous, dense and loose leather obtained from young sheepskin by chrome tanning. The pattern of the front surface resembles chevro, but is much less durable and of poorer quality. Used for the manufacture of outerwear, shoes and haberdashery. To increase strength, loose chevrette is treated with polymer and other materials. A more durable type of chevrette, better suited for sewing shoes, is obtained from the skins of sheep of coarse-wool steppe breeds.

Cordovan ( Cordovan ) – durable, strong, elastic exclusive vegetable tanned leather with a shiny smooth front surface. It is made from separate sections of horse hide by very long hand-dressing (about 6 months). Cordovan is waterproof, durable, easy to clean, and retains its shine for a long time. Used for sewing exclusive men's shoes.

Famous Indy boots from the American company Alden.

Artificial substitutes for natural leather

Leather MF ( Microfiber synthetic leather ) – an artificial substitute for genuine leather based on microfiber - the finest synthetic microfibers of polyester and polyamide. Microfiber (MF) is characterized by lightness and high strength, it is plastic and springy, resistant to light and chemicals, allows the formation of materials of various structures, including textiles and knitwear, and does not accumulate static electricity. MF leathers have excellent water resistance and breathability, are resistant to abrasion, retain color and shape well during long-term use, are easy to clean and do not absorb dirt, have virtually no odor of their own and do not perceive foreign odors.

MF leathers are almost indistinguishable from genuine leather in appearance. This effect is achieved through high-quality imitation of the texture of the front and back sides of the skin. MF leathers are free from congenital and acquired surface defects characteristic of natural leathers. When making MF leather, you can obtain almost any texture, color, and decorative effects on rolled material of various widths.

MF leathers are used for casual and sports shoes, as well as furniture and automotive leathers. The use of MF leather allows us to save the lives of animals raised for their natural leather.

PU leather ( Polyurethane leather ) – a high-tech multi-layer product based on defective genuine leather. The damaged outer layer of genuine leather is replaced with ultra-fine fibers made of high-quality polyurethane (PU) - this is how PU leather is obtained. PU leather has through pores and the properties of a “breathable” and hygroscopic material, it is lightweight, resistant to mechanical stress, and tolerates low temperatures well. PU leather manufacturing technology allows you to obtain the front layer of any colors and textures without compromising the breathability and ductility of the material. Often, products made from PU leather look more attractive than those made from genuine leather.

PU leather is used to make elegant outerwear and lightweight clothing, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, jewelry and decorative items, as well as furniture and automotive leathers.

Camera case made of Polyurethane leather

PVC leather, vinyl leather ( Polyvinyl chloride, Vinyl synthetic leather ) – material made of monolithic or porous polyvinyl chloride (PVC) applied to a fiber base. The basis of vinyl artificial leather can be fabric, knitwear, various types of non-woven materials made from natural or synthetic fibers. The properties of vinyl artificial leather for a specific purpose - strength, flexibility, extensibility, springiness, fluidity, drape - are ensured by the use of various base materials. The density of vinyl artificial leather is given by impregnation with polymer compositions. Thus, by varying the bases and additional processing methods, it is possible to obtain vinyl artificial leather with any predetermined properties. Vinyl leather is waterproof, resistant to abrasion, retains its color and shape well during long-term use, is easy to clean and does not absorb dirt, has no odor of its own and does not perceive foreign odors.

Vinyl leather is used for the manufacture of elegant outerwear and lightweight clothing, youth fashionable clothing, underwear, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, accessories, jewelry and decorative elements, as well as furniture and automobile leather.

Eco leather (Eco leather) – a material made of microporous “breathable” polyurethane applied to a fabric base made of natural or polyester materials. A unique material that has all the best qualities of natural leather and does not have its disadvantages. It has excellent hygienic properties, does not require special care, is durable, lightweight and wear-resistant. Visually indistinguishable from genuine leather. As the thickness of the polyurethane layer increases, the quality and performance properties improve, but the hardness of the eco-leather also increases.

It is used for sewing clothes and linen, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, accessories, household items, jewelry and decorative elements, as well as furniture and automobile leather.

• Special artificial leather substitutes:

Faux suede (Artificial chamois) – textile imitation of natural suede, material made of cotton and polyester fibers on an adhesive basis. To protect against moisture and contamination, the material is coated with Teflon coating. To impart rigidity, the material is laminated on one side - subjected to high-temperature gluing to the substrate. Retains its shape and properties when washed and after drying, is resistant to temperature changes, and does not cause allergic reactions. In appearance it differs little from its natural counterpart, but is more durable and does not require special care. It is used for hats, lightweight inexpensive shoes and various accessories, car interior trim, as well as in the production of furniture.

Artificial nubuck (Artificial nubuck leather, Synthetic nubuck leather ) – imitation of natural nubuck made of PU leather. In appearance it is almost no different from its natural counterpart, it is more resistant to moisture and dirt, and does not require special care. Mainly used for making shoes, haberdashery and accessories.

Patent faux leather (Synthetic patent leather) – artificial leather with the front surface coated with varnish. Made from all types of artificial leather. With high quality, it is in no way inferior to natural analogues, but is cheaper and less demanding in care. Varnish artificial leather is used for tailoring clothes, hats, haberdashery and accessories, making men's, women's and children's dress shoes, interior decoration, as well as in the production of furniture. Quality depends on the manufacturer and type of material.

Stretch leather (Synthetic stretch l weather) - thin, elastic, springy material. Made from all types of artificial leather. Stretch vinyl artificial leather and eco-leather are more common. It is used for sewing clothes, concert costumes and various accessories. It looks impressive and does not require special care. Quality depends on the manufacturer and type of material.

Leather print (Synthetic p rinted leather) – material with a pattern applied by one or a combination of different methods. Made from all types of artificial leather. When making leather prints, embossing, engraving, applying various inclusions, varnishing and many other techniques can be used. Artificial leather prints are significantly superior in range to their natural counterparts.

Perforated leather (Perforated s synthetic leather) – material with holes cut or punched through its entire surface. Made from all types of artificial leather. It is used in making shoes, outerwear, haberdashery and accessories, in the production of furniture and car finishing.

Leather with embroidery ( Embroidered s synthetic leather ) - material with patterns embroidered on the front surface. Made from all types of artificial leather, except PU leather. Unlike natural analogues, artificial leather can be easily processed on industrial and household sewing machines. The range of artificial leather embroidered with complex patterns, lace and ribbons is very large. Artificial leather with embroidery is very widely used in tailoring, hats, accessories, interior decoration and furniture making.

Examples of descriptions of leather goods in stores

Now let's try to move from theory to practice. We will try to look at different products in stores and try to apply what we have learned.

For example, let's look at the description of these boots in the popular LLbean store.

The description clearly states the use of bison leather without any tricks.

By zooming in on the photo we can see the texture of the skin.

Let's look at the bomber jacket from Alpha Industries. The description also clearly indicates the use of natural sheepskin.

Boots Dr. martens 1461. The description clearly indicates the synthetic origin of the materials. However, these boots are unlikely to be of poor quality.

Sometimes in stores information about materials is not given explicitly. Terms such as "Premium leather" may be used. At the same time, anything can be meant by this term. From any type of genuine leather to regular leatherette with some kind of processing. As a rule, stock stores with discounted goods are not very scrupulous in these matters. For example, here are women's boots from the 6pm store. The description doesn't say anything about the leather itself, it just says "Premium".

Therefore, it is advisable to make purchases in such stores when a person already knows the product he is buying and has an idea about it.

Conclusion

I hope that this material was interesting and useful for readers of the resource.

Now, reading the description of a particular product, the buyer will be more interested in the material and pay less attention to the marketing gimmicks of some stores.

Having replenished his baggage of “consumer” knowledge with the above information, a person will be able to understand the product being purchased much better, having greater erudition, he will be able to pass by something with a calm soul, and become quite reasonably interested in something. Perhaps someone will approach purchases much more consciously, not buying things of mediocre quality, just because of the price at sales. Knowing about the properties and characteristics of a particular type of leather, a person will be able to choose a product that will most fully meet the buyer’s requirements. In the end, there is no such thing as “harmful” knowledge :)

34 comments

• After a recent review, in addition to my disagreement with its author, I wondered, but in some ways the author of the review is right, how does the average person know that “Premium leather” is not what it seems at first glance :-)

  Therefore, I asked Dmitry to understand this difficult issue both for himself and for our readers. In my opinion, the article turned out to be good and comprehensive. I’ll definitely keep it in my bookmarks and use it as a cheat sheet.

  Dmitry, thank you very much :-)

Brief description of skin types

Aniline (natural)

This leather has a surface dyed with transparent dyes. This transparency makes it similar to painted wood. Indeed, the grain remains natural and clearly visible. If aniline leather has defects, these are like natural marks, which means that each skin is one of a kind. Such skin has minimal protection of the surface layer, that is, it is the most sensitive when used.

In order for the skin to maintain its natural beauty, daily care is absolutely necessary - cleaning and protection from the very first day.

CHARACTERISTICS

• natural look;
• pleasant to the touch;
• natural grain and marks;
• extremely comfortable and breathable.

Semi-aniline

This skin is covered with a slightly pigmented layer, making its color more even and hiding its minor defects. Transparent and shiny colors are sprayed on top of the skin, thereby recreating its natural color. This leather also has a very weak protective layer, and therefore the use of Leather Protector is recommended.

CHARACTERISTICS

• natural grained surface;
• pleasant to look and feel;
• more resistant to light;
• more practical than aniline;
• “breathes easily.”

Pigmented leather

Pigmentation is the most widely used leather finishing technology, which consists of creating a uniform surface based on pigments and resin, onto which a protective coating is applied. Such skin can be recognized by its dense, uniform color. It is ideal for everyday leather items such as furniture or car seats, especially when you let your children ride on them without worrying about them.

With the help of FENICE products, things made from this leather can easily maintain their appearance. If necessary, the color of these items is completely restored.

CHARACTERISTICS

• deep color;
• more resistant to light;
• good masking of defects;
• easy to care for.

Nubuck leather

This leather is essentially an aniline dyed leather that has been sand polished to give it a fine hairy effect. This skin has an incomparable look and sensuality. It is very good for things that are not everyday items.

When caring for nubuck, it is important from the very beginning to organize its daily protection alternately with regular cleaning. The FENICE company produces special products designed for nubuck care and everyday protection. It is very important that such skin is protected by products created exclusively for these purposes.

CHARACTERISTICS

• velvet effect in appearance and touch;
• very comfortable;
• soft and airy to the touch.

PullUp leather

Fashion comes and goes, but waxy, oily skins are always with us. Everyone is familiar with the term "pull up", which was originally used to describe the effect inherent in the leather known as "Timberland", after a famous shoemaker made it famous. Leather of this type becomes lighter after stretching and bending it in all possible ways, in general, after “pull up” operations.

CHARACTERISTICS

• sensual, pleasant to the touch;
• stylish;
• has a unique, striking appearance.

Bycast leather

This type of leather represents a completely different type of processing and enhancement of the leather (usually split or heavily sanded leather) while maintaining the same thickness and softness. The processing method consists of creating a finishing film overlaid on a continuous release paper backing. An adhesive is first applied to the film, after which it is pressed to the skin. Then the paper film backing is removed, and the leather surface appears treated perfectly evenly and evenly.

Often, when Bycast leather is stretched, its color becomes lighter, and when released, it returns to its original thickness. This type of skin is sometimes recognized based on this feature.

CHARACTERISTICS

• durable;
• uniformly colored appearance.

Natural marks

Keep in mind that not all leather imperfections require removal or repair because some leathers have natural marks and imperfections, including:

• traces of a burnt brand,
• color changes,
• litter marks,
• healed scars and scars,
• insect bite marks,
• natural wrinkles,
• pores.

However, using products produced by the FENICE company, the following defects can be removed from the surface of the skin:

• various contaminants,
• stains from ballpoint pens, felt-tip pens and markers,
• dry, hard or otherwise defective mechanical areas,
• scuffs and scratches,
• grease stains - from sweat on human skin, animals,
• mold stains,
• food stains,
• cracking;
• areas with discoloration, wear

Instructions for solving problems associated with this type of repair are given on subsequent pages of this manual, but first determine your leather type.

Leather is made by tanning animal hides, turning the hide into a durable, durable material. Leather in the usual sense is not yet leather until it undergoes the tanning procedure.

Aniline leather

The most expensive type of leather due to the selection of exclusive skins. The leather is dyed in special baths and does not have any pigment coating. This allows the skin to breathe. Each aniline leather product is unique. On its surface you can see unique marks that can tell a lot about yourself.

Pros: The most natural skin type. Very soft and gentle to the touch. Stays warm and cozy in winter and cool and breathable in summer.

Cons: This leather does not have a protective coating, so it absorbs moisture well, and is also prone to staining and fading. This can be avoided by following our year-round skin care plan.

The illustration shows the raw surface of the leather without any protective coating.

Semi-aniline leather

This type of leather is identical to aniline leather, but has a thin protective layer applied to it to help resist stains. Some natural markings on the leather are still noticeable, but not as much as on aniline leather.

Pros: This leather is easy to clean and maintain. It is pleasant, soft to the touch, and has natural markings. Often available in two colors.

Cons: There are no major cons other than it looks less natural than aniline leather.

The surface of semi-aniline leather is covered with a thin layer of pigment.

Dyed leather

This type of leather is dyed by spraying a special dye, so it is evenly colored and perfectly protected from dirt and moisture. Very often, such leather first undergoes an embossing procedure, during which its surface is given a special texture.

Pros: This leather is wear-resistant. It is easy to clean and maintain in proper condition. The paint is evenly distributed on the surface and all “defects” of the skin are hidden.

Cons: This leather hardly breathes. The artificial texture of the surface makes it look less natural.

A thick layer of pigment is applied to the surface of dyed leather.

BiCast

This leather is covered with a thin polyurethane film. It is wear-resistant and easy to clean.

Pros: Baycast leather is easy to clean and maintain. It has a uniform color and high resistance to sunlight.

Cons: There is no natural texture on the surface, so the skin does not look very natural. It is tactilely reminiscent of plastic and practically does not breathe, which causes discomfort when used in the summer.

A polyurethane film is glued to the surface of the Baycast leather.

Pull-Up

Very natural skin type. The leather is treated in such a way that it begins to look slightly worn over time as it lightens when stretched.

Pros: This leather has a natural appearance, soft and pleasant to the touch.

Cons: Difficult to clean and gets dirty easily. However, these problems can be avoided by following our Year-Round Skin Care Plan.

The picture shows leather well soaked in waxes and oils.

Nubuck

The leather is sanded, resulting in a fleecy surface.

Pros: The leather has a natural appearance, soft and pleasant to the touch.

Cons: Nubuck products are difficult to care for since the leather does not have a protective coating. It is highly susceptible to contamination. However, you can easily overcome these challenges if you follow our Year-Round Skin Care Plan.

Suede: This is a split leather material whose surface is sanded. In this case, the surface becomes fleecy. Unlike suede, nubuck is a sanded outer layer of leather. The surface of suede will always have a rougher texture, similar to carpet, and nubuck, similar to corduroy.

The leather is specially sanded to create a fleecy surface.

Split

The animal's skin is cut into several layers.

The top layer is called the front layer, the bottom layer is called split.

Split wood is not very strong, so it is used for the side and back segments of furniture upholstery, some elements of shoes, and workwear. Sometimes an artificial texture is applied to the split leather, and then it is covered with a layer of pigment.