Mittens and mittens from an old sweater. How to sew mittens from an old sheepskin coat Patterns for sewing mittens

Sometimes there is a need for work gloves, but for some reason you can’t run to the store. Then you can make them yourself from old unwanted jeans.

To work you will need:

• Thick fabric (denim, canvas);
• threads (preferably harsh);
• needle;
• chalk or soap;
• scissors;

A sewing machine will be very useful.

The product consists of three parts. It is necessary to make patterns of all parts. First, you need to draw the upper part of the mitten on a piece of paper. To do this, draw a rectangle, its upper corners are rounded. If you put your hand on this drawing, the palm fits well and there is still enough free space.

Using the same principle, two more parts of the inner side are cut out.

Now you need to make the fabric parts. Paper patterns are applied to the fabric and traced. For this, colored chalk or soap with a pointed end is most often used.

When the paper pattern has been traced, it is removed and an allowance of another centimeter and a half is drawn around what was drawn on the fabric. This is to ensure that the size of the finished piece does not decrease when everything is sewn together. They are called “seam allowance”.

The same is done with the other two parts. To make cutting more convenient and the fabric does not move, you can fasten both layers with pins or sew several stitches with a basting seam.

All pattern elements are cut out. The resulting parts should be symmetrical for the left and right hands.

If you are a beginner, you first need to baste with a needle and thread, and then stitch. Experienced seamstresses can sew without preliminary basting.

Begin sweeping from the thumb. This will be the inside of the glove. Sweep the front part to the front part.

Slowly sew through the sour cream on a typewriter. If you don't have a machine, you can stitch it all by hand. This is where the backstitch needle fits. It's quite strong.

If the fabric frays, it will be very good to overcast the edge with an overcast stitch. Along the entire length. This will make the gloves last longer.

Then they adjust the outer part to the inner one and trim it if the edges do not meet somewhere.

Once everything is topstitched or hand sewn, you need to overcast the new edges.

All you have to do is turn the glove inside out and that’s it. The result is a finished product.

Note that in this particular case, the fabric on the wrist of the mitten did not have to be hemmed due to the patterns being made from an already hemmed piece of fabric. Otherwise, you need to sew this part as well.

This is what the finished product looks like.

Sewing sheepskin and fur mittens at the ALLIANCE-FUR fur factory

Using the given pattern you can sew size 9 mittens.
First, the main parts are cut from small pieces of sheepskin: palm and back, then the pads. For the latter, a skin with lower hair, soft and thin leather tissue is selected.

Having smoothed out the wrinkles on the skin, place the mitten patterns on the leather fabric, trace them with chalk or a ballpoint pen and cut them with a sharp knife, scalpel or razor along the intended contour. If the skin has an uneven surface, it is moistened from the leather side with warm water (40-45 ° C), then folded along the ridge line with the hair outward, left to rest for 30 minutes and mounted on a wooden board, secured along the edge with nails. Having cut out the palm and back parts, cut through the two sides of the departure triangle, marked in gray (see picture).

The details of the mittens are sewn with overlock stitches manually (see the picture below) or on a furrier's machine, using cotton threads No. 40-50 of the corresponding color and needles No. 70 (90-100). For very thick skins, size 30 thread and a thicker needle will work. The seam height should be no more than 0.3 cm, the stitch frequency should be 3-5 per 1 cm of stitching.

First, they sew the tips (see the picture below) into the palm parts in the following sequence: sew the side of the flying triangle (from the top) and the side of the tip, then sew the base of the tip into the cutout of the palm part. Next, they sew the remaining side part of the tip with the second side of the take-off triangle and the top. At the end, the palm and back parts are folded with the hair inward and ground down. To straighten the seams, tap them with a heavy, blunt object (you can use a hammer).

Pattern napalka

The edges of the cuffs of the mittens are decorated with decorative braid, fur turned outward, or an applique of pieces of fur. Finished products can be sheathed with some dense monochromatic material or tied with colored yarn. Then the mittens will take on an elegant and aesthetic appearance.

Note. In the same way, you can sew fur mittens from rabbit skins.

Mittens

The easiest way to make down mittens is with a four-layer design. The pattern consists of three parts: the palm part, the back part and the tip (Fig. 128). It is necessary to cut out four sets of parts. Prepare two sets of bags from them. Now we connect the package of the blade with the package of the palm part. We lay the seam along contour 1, 2, 3. On the stick, in the place marked by the arrow, we lay several folds that create volume for it. At point 3, turn the stitch perpendicular to the cut of the parts towards the edge and make a tack, then lightly cut the corner (Fig. 129). We attach a rubber band to one of the bags on the back, which will tightly clasp the wrist (Fig. 130). We fold the palm bags with the front sides together and grind them down. Now it is important not to attach the stick to the palm packet. To do this, we turn it slightly towards the middle of the palmar part (Fig. 131).

We process the second workpiece in the same way, but do not adjust the elastic. We turn one of the blanks right side out and insert the other into it (Fig. 132). We edge the open sections of the mitten with braid.

The most difficult thing when making mittens is not to get confused in the right and left parts.

Let's try to sew a two-layer mitten. We cut out two parts (see Fig. 128). Figures 129, 130, 131 show how to assemble a mitten blank from packages of parts. In the same way, only from single-layer parts, we assemble the inner and outer blanks with their back sides facing each other (Fig. 133) and lay a stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam cuts. After this, we grind down the seam sections on the sticks. Figure 133 shows which seams we sew together. Figure 134 shows a cross-section of the mitten blank that will be obtained after performing these operations.

Turn the resulting workpiece right side out. The direction of eversion is indicated by an arrow. We straighten the stick and get a mitten blank, which consists of three compartments (Fig. 135). Fill the compartments with down: level the down. We edge the open sections of the mitten.

From nutria skins you can sew fur mittens. A medium-length skin will make a pair of children's or women's mittens. For men, mittens will require either two medium-length skins or one large nutria skin.

The nutria skin has a clearly visible line on its back, from which it is symmetrical and necessary to cut out mittens. It is better to use fur from the back of the nutria for the outside of the mittens, and fur from the belly for the inside of the mittens.

Let's make a mitten pattern according to the hand:

measure the circumference of the palm in a bent state without squeezing it, for example 20 cm and divide by 2, we get 10 cm;

measure the distance from the wrist to the top of the middle finger - 17.5 cm;

measure the distance from the wrist to the top of the little finger - 13 cm;

draw a rectangle with sides 10 cm and 17.5 cm;

mark 13 cm on both sides and round the top to the middle;

from the wrist we extend the sides by 3-5 cm - here the mitten appears, or rather its outer part;

for the inside of the mitten you need a cutout for the thumb, for which we draw two perpendicular ones, intersecting in the middle of the segment with sides of 5 cm and 4 cm, connecting the ends of the segments with an oval;

Place the oval 1 cm above the wrist and 1 cm from the side edge;

By cutting out an oval, we get a mitten pattern.

Let's make a pattern for the thumb:

the most radical thing is to circle the thumb from the bend to the end of the protrusion in front of the wrist;

Connect all the vertices with a smooth line, resulting in a height of 10 cm.

Do not forget the seam allowances on each side of 0.5 cm.

We apply the patterns to the inside of the nutria skin with the fur facing up, and trace them. Remember that the cutouts for the thumbs should be symmetrical. We cut from the flesh side with a sharp knife or blade, taking precautions.

When assembling the parts, we sew them together using a loop seam or over the edge, then turn them fur side out. We sew the binding to the edge using a buttonhole stitch, cut from the material on the bias, 2 cm wide.

Using the same pattern, we will cut an internal insulating mitten from any material. We sew it together without turning it inside out, put it on the hand, and put a fur mitten on top. We sew the edge of the inner mitten to the folded binding using a hidden seam. The mitten is ready! We sew the second mitten in the same way and severe frosts are not scary!

MITTENS(for 3-6 years, for a height of approximately 98-122 cm.)

Waterproof mittens - this was a disaster for my son, he is very active and runs and plays outside a lot. At one time, about 4 different models of mittens were tested, and only one turned out to be the most successful - the sewn-in elastic bands gathered the fabric well and, when necessary, stretched, and the Velcro strap held the mitten on the hand perfectly, the mitten never fell off. Long cuffs—gaiters—were worn directly over the sleeves, and when wallowing in the snow, nothing got inside the sleeve; the elastic band held the mitten on the sleeve and prevented the lower part from “lifting up.” In other mittens, the mittens had to be adjusted 5-10 times throughout the walk. Even more expensive models were not so successful. When the need arose to buy the same mittens for the fourth time, I decided to try to sew the same ones myself, and took the pattern from the ripped mittens.
The pattern was taken from a finished cut product, so minor flaws and inconsistencies are possible. In addition, the insulation in the finished mittens was faux fur; I used Thinsulate 100 and fleece as insulation and lining. The mittens turned out a little thicker than the finished ones, so you can keep that in mind. Thinsulate could easily be “halved”, i.e. make it thinner by layering it in two. The lower part - the leggings - can be made longer. In addition, you can make mittens of a larger or smaller size; I have only seen one universal size on sale.
Pattern of the main product consists of 4 parts (on the sheets the lines are given with a simple blue pen), given without allowances (1cm is enough for allowances along all lines):
1. part A - this is the part of the mitten that goes along the outer (back) side of the palm
2. part B – the lower part of the inside of the mitten
3. part B – upper part of the inside of the mitten
4. part D – strap (or strap)

Pattern of insulated lining consists of 3 parts (on the sheets the lines are given with a green felt-tip pen), given with allowances, except for the bottom (stitch 05.-07 cm from the edge):
5. part A is the part of the mitten that goes along the outer (back) side of the palm
6. part B – the lower part of the inside of the mitten
7. part B – the upper part of the inside of the mitten

Sewing:
Details of the main product are cut out with allowances. Part D is given in folded form, so it needs to be “doubled” and allowances given. Fold in half, right side inward, stitch along the lines, cut off the corners at the corners, turn them inside out, iron them, you can make a stitch, stitch a piece of Velcro along the marked lines (aka Velcro, aka Velcro tape, etc.) - the brushed part (that , which is softer).
Place reflective tape on part A (if the tape is wider, focus on the upper border) and a piece of Velcro on the side with the hooks. Along the edge on the front side, pin or stitch the finished part G a little closer to the edge. To do it right right away, this strap starts from the side opposite the finger, goes around the palm on the inside along the elastic band and “sticks” on the outside with Velcro, i.e. . it needs to be placed in the place where there is no finger (near the piece of Velcro on part A), face to face (the front part of part A and that part of the strap where the Velcro is not visible), with the long part towards the finger. If it’s not entirely clear, you can stitch the Velcro onto the strap later, the main thing is not to forget to put the strap between the parts.
Sew parts B and C to the mark (along the finger line). Notch and trim allowances where necessary. On part B, sew an elastic band (you can use a regular straight stitch) from the inside along the intended line (the length of the elastic is about 5.5-6.5 cm, excluding allowances).
Sew parts B=B and part A, aligning the marks and the stitched elastic (make sure that the ends of the elastic get into the seam).
Sew an elastic band onto the resulting mitten from the inside out in a circle along the intended line (it is this elastic band that will be the “bottom” of the mitten), what is lower will then turn upward into the inside of the mitten.

For an insulated lining, cut out parts A, B, C from fleece directly along the contour lines, cut them out, then trace them onto the insulation material (for example, Thinsulate), pin them to the wrong side and stitch approximately 0.5 cm from the edge of each part separately with this or a part made of insulation. Then the insulation needs to be cut as close as possible to the laid line.
The sewing is the same as for the main part of the mittens, but no elastic bands, Velcro, etc. are sewn on. In addition, for turning, you need to leave a small section unsewn; this place is marked on the pattern (from the thumb down).
You can “try it on” - put the insulated part of the mitten into the main one, if the insulated underpad does not “fit” (the main part wrinkles or lumps and creases are felt inside), you can reduce it by sewing a little further from the edge of the parts.
Then sew the insulated lining and the main part - turn out the main part, put the insulated part into it (the face with the face inside, i.e. the face of the raincoat fabric and the fleece together). It turns out that the line will be laid along the wrong side of the main part of the raincoat fabric, and on the other side there will be insulation (thinsulate). Stitch along the intended line, while the main part will be a little longer, and the elastic will get in the way a little. And make sure to stitch the left with the left, and the right with the right (the thumb should be on the same line, and not in a mirror image). Trim the seam allowances, turn them inside out, and hand-sew the seam section left unsewn for turning them inside out.
In addition, after this I also sewed loops from cotton braid so that there would be something to hang it on hooks.
I really hope it helped. There may be errors in the description - write to me, I will correct them!

PATTERN (applied to A4 sheets)

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There are many different mitten lining patterns on the Internet. But I want to invite you to make a simple and convenient pattern yourself - for the specific sizes of your mittens.

You can choose any material for the lining - knitted fabric, fleece, artificial or natural thin fur. In this tutorial I will tell you and show you how to make a lining for mittens from fleece.

To work you will need:

• fleece (I bought a 25 cm piece; for children's mittens, a length of 15-20 cm is enough, depending on the size of the palm and the desired height of the insulated cuff);
• scissors;
• a soft pencil or chalk if the fleece is dark;
• needle and thread to match the lining for hand sewing;
• you can sew the main lines on a machine (but my sewing machine didn’t take fleece, so I sewed everything completely by hand).

How to sew a lining for fleece mittens:

1. Take a landscape sheet, place the finished mitten on it, press it with your hand and trace along the outer edge.
2. On the side, mark the point where the finger begins. Draw a line parallel to the cuff through the point of the thumb.
3. Fold the mitten so that your finger sticks out. Place your finger with the base of your finger close to the edge of the mitten. Circle your finger.
4. Shorten the pattern on the cuff side by 0.5-1 cm so that the lining does not show through. If you are using knitted fabric, then you do not need to shorten the pattern. At this point you just need to bend it.

   

5. Cut out the pattern around the perimeter.
6. Trace two copies on fleece without allowances - this is the top of the mitten.
7. Now we cut the pattern along the perimeter of the finger and along the remaining line of the finger. This is a pattern for the bottom of the mitten (at the cuff).
8. We also trace it on the fleece in two copies, but the second copy should be a mirror one (just turn the pattern over to the other side of the paper). IMPORTANT!!! Make a small allowance along the straight line of your finger - 2-3mm for stitching.

   

9. Now we bend the protruding finger along the line of the finger and outline it on the second side of the pattern.
10. Cut off the double finger and apply it to the front of the pattern.
11. We trace the front part of the pattern on fleece in two copies - the second is also mirrored. IMPORTANT!!! Don't forget to make an allowance of 2-3 mm along the finger line. Cut out all 6 lining pieces.
12. Place the bottom and top of the palm of the mitten together face to face along the line of the finger (the stitching line is marked in red in the photo).

    

13. Sew the line of the finger and its perimeter with an overlock stitch.
14. Place the stitched palm and the top of the mitten together face to face. We sew along the perimeter from the cuff line on one side to the cuff line on the second side.
15. We put the lining on the hand, and put the mitten on top. We straighten it carefully.
16. Sew the edge of the lining to the cuff using blind stitches.
17. Using a blind stitch, we bring the edge of the lining over the top to the knitting at the top of the finger.
18. We slightly grab the lining along the edge of the fingers to the knitting with hidden stitches so that the mitten does not turn out when removing.

Shared master class

Anastasia Kononenko

We receive workwear in production. But even at home we have to do a lot of different work, which requires special clothing.

Now we will look at one detail - the mittens. What are they for and how to sew work gloves with your own hands and make a pattern?

Direct assignment workwear – protecting people from injury when performing various types of work. Mittens perform several functions:

• protection of hands from cold;
• from causing various types of injuries - cuts, bruises;
• from contact with skin of harmful chemicals and dirt.

In any production there are standards for providing special clothing However, in some cases, the resulting tops fail ahead of time or simply come across inconvenient models, with rough seams and the wrong size.

If you sew work gloves yourself, you can easily avoid such problems. Selecting the best materials and having made an exact pattern according to the size of your palm, you can sew warm fur coats or regular tops with your own hands. These mittens are also useful for those who live in a private home or when traveling to the country.

Selection of suitable materials and cut features

Work gloves have different purposes. For summer work, it is enough to sew them from dense material in one layer. The best material for them would be canvas, leather or thick and durable denim. You can use old things that are unwearable for these purposes, or you can specifically buy suitable material in a store.

The main task of work gloves is to prevent splinters from entering, to protect from cuts from sharp materials, from pricks from the thorns of thorny plants, and from unnecessary contamination.

For winter work, you will need to sew an insulated version. In this case, you can use thick cloth, thin felt or drape. It is good to make winter mittens lined with natural or faux fur, quilted batting or warm and soft knitwear. It is better to make the top layer from denser fabrics, similar to those we used for summer mittens.

If you need protection from chemical compounds, you will need a waterproof cloth– rubberized raincoat or durable bolognese.

Instructions for measuring and making patterns

The pattern of work gloves is simple. In some cases, it is enough to simply circle the palm around the perimeter with an allowance of 13-20 mm. This cut is suitable for sewing from elastic, stretchable materials.

The standard cut of work gloves made of three parts is more common - the back side is cut out as a single piece, and for the inside, two parts are outlined, which are sewn together.

In this case, two-layer mittens will have six parts, which are marked according to one pattern - you get two mittens nested one inside the other. Just don't forget that the cut details of the outer part should be slightly larger than the inner ones. This is necessary so that the inner part fits easily into the outer part, without unnecessary folds and wrinkles. When cutting, just make an extra allowance.

The patterns for the right and left mittens are the same, just lay them out on the fabric in a mirror image. For convenience, mark the front side of each piece: this way you will avoid annoying mistakes when sewing.

For the correct pattern template you will need to measure:

• The length of the palm from the wrist to the fingertips;
• The width of the palm (for a more accurate result, measure the full circumference of the palm at its widest part and divide in half);
• Wrist circumference (when cutting, this indication is also divided into two);
• The length and thickness of the thumb;
• Distance from fingertips to bottom of thumb.

The size of the parts is selected in such a way so that when finished they are not too dense, but did not fly off the hand when swinging. To achieve this, you need to add 15 mm on both sides to the measurements of the length and width of the palm and add a seam allowance.

The figure below shows a pattern template for work gloves for a medium size in full size. For convenience, each part has a square marking grid, where the side of the cage is 25 mm.

For those who do not have the skills to cut themselves, you can make a template like this out of cardboard. If it is necessary to increase or decrease the pattern, the template is cut along the middle lines and moved apart or moved to the required distance.

At the same time, do not forget about the length of the thumb - the pattern for it is adjusted in the same way. For ease of sewing, this pattern can be improved by slightly shifting the location of the thumb to the center. Then there will be no thickening of the seam at the junction of the three parts and the product will be of higher quality.

People of different professions use gloves every day to comply with safety regulations and personal protection. , find out from a special article.

In what areas are knitted gloves with a polymer coating actively used, read.

See instructions for measuring and cutting men's work overalls.

Step-by-step description of sewing

The sewing process is simple and accessible even to beginners. Main, follow the sequence of operations and carefully monitor the alignment of the back and front sides. Let's look at sewing a two-layer work mitten.

First we will sew the inner mitten - the lining. For this:

• We sew together two parts covering the palm. We fold them with the front side inward, aligning them along the outer contour.
• We sew from edge to edge, simultaneously laying a horizontal seam and connecting the parts of the thumb.
• We make small cuts at the base of the thumb, and smooth the horizontal seam allowances on both sides.
• Now all that remains is to sew the inside and back sides with one continuous line. The lining of the mitten is ready.

We sew the outer mitten in the same way. After sewing all the parts, we make small notches in the places where the palm and thumb are rounded, so that there are no creases when turning it right side out.

We insert the lining part into the outer mitten, carefully straighten and combine all the parts.

It remains to process the connecting top seam. To do this, you can use a narrow strip of fabric edging, or when cutting, increase the length of the upper cut of the outer mitten, and then fold it inside the product and stitch it. A good option is to sew cuffs from elastic knitwear. This will give you additional protection against cold air penetration.

For easy storage, sew special loops on the back of the mittens so that they can be hung to dry.

An important point is to select the strongest threads for stitching.

We also sew the second mitten. As you can see, everything is simple and easy.

Storage rules and care

The lifespan of your work gloves will depend on how well do you care for them?. There are few requirements. Here are the main ones:

• Do not leave them dirty and crumpled after work.. If heavily soiled, wash immediately. If you just get wet, straighten it and dry it.
• During the drying process, make sure that they not located too close to the heat source, otherwise they will either warp or burn.
• Have a dedicated storage space– this way you will always find them at the right time. It is best to make special hooks for hanging.

Work should bring joy to a person. And for this to really be the case, you should take care of comfortable conditions.

With mittens that you sew yourself for work, the process itself will become easier and more comfortable. Take care of yourself and your loved ones.

While sewing, you will enjoy the importance of the activity, and your hands will thank you for the warmth and comfort when working outside. After practicing making working models, you will be able to sew elegant fur coats from leftover fur. Give free rein to your imagination, decorate the outside with various patterns and wear with pleasure.