Modeling a little black dress based on the base. We easily model the bodice of dresses and blouses with reliefs

Fashion designer

Hello, dear readers!

The purpose of our lesson is to learn how to model dresses based on a basic pattern. The kind that even beginners can handle. In addition, we will look at simple styles of dresses that suit your body type, using examples of which you can, if you wish, create more complex models, enriching them with details and using a combination of fabric textures and colors.

Sometimes they write to us: “It’s very difficult for me to buy ready-made clothes, my figure is an inverted triangle, and besides, I have a very decent bust and a wide chest, that is, my chest volume is 102 cm - this is a very big disappointment for me. I don’t I have the opportunity to purchase nothing for myself, because the rest of the figure parameters go to size 44-46... What style can I choose?”

Of course, having parameters that do not fit within the standards, it is difficult to find something to your liking in the store, and sometimes going for a new thing results in frustration. Well, there’s no need to be sad, especially for a person who has at least a little experience in tailoring. And we will try to help with simple patterns, ones that even a novice tailor can create. It's no secret that everyone in the world makes dresses using one universal pattern, modifying and modeling it. Having such an invaluable tool in your arsenal, the creation of which on our website will not take much time, you will be able to dress according to your taste and the image you have imagined.

First, what is a basic pattern? This is a pattern without model features; roughly speaking, it is a human figure made in a two-dimensional plane. The pattern has a different degree of fit, depending on what type of clothing will be designed in the future - outerwear (coat, jacket) or light (dress, blouse, corset, etc.), and differs in the size of the freedom increases. Therefore, on our website you will find both, and also, they will differ in increases, which is very important. By the way, on our website, along with the ability to create a basic pattern according to individual sizes, there is a whole range of dress models that are absolutely different in cut and suitable for women of different body types. You can also use them, especially since each size is available in three heights, and this is very important for a good fit of the finished product.

So, having the base pattern in hand, you and I can proceed directly to modeling. First, let's choose a dress model. You need to take this point very responsibly, objectively assessing your appearance, figure, image as a whole. After all, it’s no secret that we are all different people, each of us has our own individual figure, which sometimes does not fit into the so-called “framework of the ideal,” especially since this very ideal is different in each time period, it changes according to fashion trends. Let's not conform ourselves to standards and love our individuality. All female figures are conventionally divided into several body types, and each of us belongs to one type or another to a greater or lesser extent.

Illustration from the site https://high-fashion21.ru

Modeling a dress for a Triangle (pear) body type

The pear-type figure is very feminine, but sometimes brings the owner some difficulties when choosing a ready-made dress due to the difference in the circumference of the hips and chest. Don't be upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neck, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrasting inserts running along the dress and visually modeling the figure, as well as a little high waist, heels and tights that match your shoes will make you look slimmer. We try to avoid decor in the hip area, patch pockets, draperies, transverse stripes and large prints.

For a modeling example, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on. The style is interesting because the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate the lower type of female figure in the best possible way. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help visually hide the width of the hips, and a white, widening silhouette will bring a slimmer silhouette to the fore. But here you can’t go overboard with excessively narrowing the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to widen the skirt a little towards the bottom.

Modeling. On the back and front pattern pieces, draw model relief lines running from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts; on the back, transfer part of the solution to the midline of the back, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest dart in the armhole; read more about moving darts here. All that remains is to mark the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the waist and hip circumferences is large and the openings of the darts for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the dart needs to be divided into two, otherwise unsightly creases will appear in the finished product in the waist area.

In the second modeling option, we suggest widening the skirt towards the bottom, making it a so-called A-line silhouette; you can also make the dress cut off at the waist.

Modeling a dress for the "Inverted Triangle" body type

Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. All the decor, bright prints are down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, here raglan sleeves will help us, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a dress with a strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear full, wide skirts, peplum skirts or trousers, straight-cut dresses, but not too voluminous or wide, with vertical seams or trim.

As an example, let’s look at modeling a pattern for a simple dress suitable for a given body type. The style features a fitted sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut along the waistline, there are two opposing folds on the front panel of the skirt, and a slit on the back panel of the skirt.

Let's start modeling by applying the back and shelf to the parts. raised lines (if you want a tighter fit or the fabric you choose is knitted, you can use a base pattern with a close-fitting silhouette). We will arrange the thallium darts on the front panel of the skirt into folds - cut the skirt part from the end of the darts vertically downwards, move the parts apart so that in the upper part we get a gap approximately equal to 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom we will keep the volume of the skirt in its original form.

Modeling a dress for an hourglass figure type

The hourglass figure type is the most feminine; it is the one that is rightfully considered a role model and we try to bring our figure closer to it, at least with the help of clothing. Lucky women are those who have this type of body type. The main advice is to focus on the waist, this way you will further emphasize your femininity and sexuality. Neckline, bows, pencil skirts, stilettos - this is your win-win look.

Let's model such a simple dress in two versions.

The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very impressive.For modeling we need And . The dress is cut at the waist, the skirt is widened towards the bottom. The darts to fit the chest are transferred to the neckline: in the first version, the darts from the neckline are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version, the darts on the chest are distributed in folds extending from the neckline, there are no sleeves.

Modeling. Step 1 - on the back detail, the dart for the roundness of the shoulder can be neglected, because The neckline of the back is quite deep and wide, but the amount of opening must be removed from the length of the shoulder so as not to upset the balance. For ease of modeling, we will transfer the dart on the shelf into an armhole. We cut the skirt pattern pieces lengthwise from the darts down.

Next, step 2 of modeling. Let's outline a new neckline according to the sketch. We will transfer the thallium dart on the shelf to the neckline, and we will also transfer the dart from the armhole there. Read more about transferring darts. When designing a cut-off adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the shelf part should be lowered at the waist by 1 cm, this will give a better fit and prevent it from being pulled up in the finished form. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern obtained after cutting the skirt parts, so that the darts open towards the bottom. Let's adjust the side cuts and bottom of the product.

Sleeve modeling. The pattern for the base of the sleeve can be found on ours. First, shorten the length to the required length. Using vertical cuts running from the hem to the bottom of the part, and subsequent sliding apart of the pattern parts, design a counter fold.

More detailed modeling of sleeves can be found in this

In the second version of the dress, the darts on the front are translated into folds extending from the neckline. We will consider modeling below.

Modeling a dress for the Oval (apple) body type

Oval (apple) figure. In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter "o". A strategy in choosing the right clothes would be to emphasize and accentuate the waist; this can be done by choosing a dress that is slightly wider towards the bottom, as well as using belts, decorative inserts that make the waist visually narrower; the top of the dress should be slightly widened, for example using a V-shaped neckline, collars . Sheath dresses, wrap dresses, low waist, A-line dresses will suit you.

As an example, let's look at this dress. It is interesting because it has a contrasting decorative line running along the dress. Visually, it greatly elongates the silhouette and makes you slimmer. In addition, the dress is loose at the waist and slightly widens towards the bottom, which is undoubtedly a plus for this type of figure. Clear cut lines and a choice of fabric that holds its shape create the desired look and collect the entire figure. To simulate this model we will use , for a better fit.

Modeling. We straighten the side cuts of the parts, because The dress has a straight, loose silhouette. Transfer the dart on the bulge of the chest to the side seam and mark the relief line. Shorten the sleeve detail pattern just above the elbow.

In the received details we will outline the front yoke and cut it off.

Modeling a dress for a Rectangle body type

Female figure of the rectangle type. For modern models it is the most typical. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, there are usually no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! This is where our modeling tips and patterns can come in handy!)) Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Marilyn Monroe or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself are what we strive for.

We chose just the right dress for the modeling lesson. We will need a pattern this time. The dress is sleeveless, loose-fitting with a counter pleat running from the neckline downwards, secured at the bottom to give the product an oval silhouette. Pockets can be made in the side seams.

Office work is often full of events, important meetings, and you always have to be on top. The “correct” clothing in such situations not only helps to effectively perform official duties, but also to feel comfortable while doing so. The stylish tight-fitting dress that we want to invite you to model is exactly what you need for a successful career - in it you will always be emphatically elegant. Due to the elasticity of the knitted textured material, this model fits the figure perfectly, but despite the narrow silhouette, it does not restrict movement at all. And the main highlight of this dress are the original darts and raised seams, which visually change the proportions of the body - reduce the waist and elongate the silhouette. In this lesson we will model a dress pattern and tell you in detail how to sew it.

Advice! To ensure that the product fits tightly to the figure, when constructing the basic dress pattern, add negative increases to the girth measurements (the amount of increase depends on the elasticity coefficient of the material and can range from - 10% to - 15%).

To model the style, use and a.

A sketch of the model is shown in Fig. 1. The sketch shows the location of darts and vertical raised seams. There is a zipper along the back of the dress for convenience. This model can be sewn either with or without lining. Since this model places the main emphasis on design lines, we recommend choosing plain materials for the product. The length of the dress from the waist is about 70 cm.

Rice. 1. Sketch of a dress model with darts and raised seams

Transfer the back and sleeve pattern onto tracing paper and use it unchanged. Model the front. To do this, from point T along the waist line, set aside 3.5 cm to the left - point A. From point A, set aside 2 cm vertically upward - point A1. Make a relief seam as shown in fig. 2a, sequentially connecting points A2 - A1 - A and extend the relief to the bottom line of the product.

Lower the top of the chest dart to the C.G. point (center of the chest). Connect point C.G. and point A1. From the bottom point of the armhole along the side line, set aside 4 cm and connect the resulting point to point A1, having previously closed the upper section of the waist dart on paper. Then open the waist dart and continue modeling the pattern for the front of the dress.

Rice. 2a-b. Modeling a dress pattern with darts and reliefs

Move the lower part of the waist dart along the line of the vertical relief seam as shown in Fig. 2a. Cut the pattern along the modeling lines. Close the chest dart with paper. Also close the upper section of the waist dart on paper as shown in Fig. 2b (dashed black line). Apply alignment marks to the parts.

The cut details of the dress are shown in Fig. 3. Additionally, you need dresses and duplicate them.

To sew a dress you will need: about 2.0 m of structured knitted fabric 145 cm wide, a hidden zipper 70 cm long, .

Rice. 3. Details of the cut of the dress with darts and reliefs

How to sew a dress

Sew the darts on the upper side parts of the front, overcast and press the seam allowances. It is better to overcast seam allowances on knitted parts with an overlock stitch. Sew the top and bottom side pieces along the bias seams, pressing the seam allowances. Sew the front parts along the vertical raised seams, overcast the seam allowances taken together and iron them to the line of the middle front.

Sew darts on the back parts, and sew a hidden zipper along the middle seam. Sew side and shoulder seams, sleeve seams, press seam allowances and overcast. Dress necks.

Sew the sleeves into the armholes. Overcast the allowances taken together. Overcast the allowances along the bottom of the dress and sleeves, fold them in and...

Your new dress is ready! You will find even more original ideas and patterns on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Subscribe to free news and sew fashionable clothes with us!

A dress can make you more feminine and beautiful, convey your romantic or sensual mood, highlight the advantages of your figure and hide flaws, visually make your figure slimmer. A dress can save you in a situation where you don’t have time to match a blouse to a skirt or trousers, a jacket, etc. Thanks to the variety of styles, you can use a dress to create a variety of looks: from business to sexy. The main thing is to choose the right dress style for your figure. MODELING A DRESS FOR A TRIANGLE (PEAR) FIGURE TYPE

For modeling example, we will choose a simple sheath dress created by on a pattern-based adjacent silhouette. The style is interesting because the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate the lower type of female figure in the best possible way. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help visually hide the width of the hips, and a white, widening silhouette will bring a slimmer silhouette to the fore. But here you can’t go overboard with excessively narrowing the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to widen the skirt a little towards the bottom.

Modeling. On the back and front pattern pieces, draw model relief lines running from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts; on the back, transfer part of the solution to the midline of the back, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest dart at the armhole. All that remains is to mark the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the waist and hip circumferences is large and the openings of the darts for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the dart needs to be divided into two, otherwise unsightly creases will appear in the finished product in the waist area.

In the second modeling option, we suggest widening the skirt towards the bottom, making it a so-called A-shaped silhouette, you can also make the dress cut off at the waist.

Modeling a dress for the “Inverted Triangle” body type

Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. All the decor, bright prints are down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, here raglan sleeves will help us, or the absence of sleeves - all in summer clothes, a dress with a strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear full, wide skirts, peplum skirts or trousers, straight-cut dresses, but not too voluminous or wide, with vertical seams or trim.

As an example, let’s look at modeling a pattern for a simple dress suitable for a given body type. The model has a fitted sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut along the waistline, there are two opposing folds on the front panel of the skirt, and a slit on the back panel of the skirt.

Let's start modeling by applying relief lines to the details of the back and front of the basic pattern of the adjacent silhouette (if you want a greater fit or the fabric chosen is knitted, you can use base pattern adjacent silhouette). We will arrange the thallium darts on the front panel of the skirt into folds - cut the skirt part from the end of the darts vertically downwards, move the parts apart so that in the upper part we get a gap approximately equal to 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom we will keep the volume of the skirt in its original form.

Modeling a dress for an hourglass figure type

Let's model such a simple dress in two versions.

The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very impressive. For modeling we will need a pattern for the base of the adjacent silhouette and a sleeve pattern. The dress is cut at the waist, the skirt is widened towards the bottom. The darts to fit the chest are transferred to the neckline: in the first version, the darts from the neckline are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version, the darts on the chest are distributed in folds extending from the neckline, there are no sleeves.

Next, step 2 of modeling. Let's outline a new neckline according to the sketch. We will transfer the thallium dart on the shelf to the neckline, and we will also transfer the dart from the armhole there. When designing a cut-off adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the shelf part should be lowered at the waist by 1 cm, this will give a better fit and prevent it from being pulled up in the finished form. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern obtained after cutting the skirt parts, so that the darts open towards the bottom. Let's adjust the side cuts and bottom of the product.

Sleeve modeling. First, shorten the length to the required length. Using vertical cuts running from the hem to the bottom of the part, and subsequent sliding apart of the pattern parts, design a counter fold.

In the second version of the dress, the darts on the front are translated into folds extending from the neckline. We will consider modeling below.

Dress modeling for Oval (apple) body type

Oval (apple) figure. In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter “o”. A strategy in choosing the right clothes would be to emphasize and accentuate the waist, this can be done by choosing a dress that is slightly wider towards the bottom, as well as using belts, decorative inserts that make the waist visually narrower; the top of the dress should be slightly widened, for example using a V-shaped neckline, collars . Sheath dresses, wrap dresses, low waist dresses, and A-line dresses will suit you.

In the received details we will outline the front yoke and cut it off.

Modeling a dress for a Rectangle body type

Female figure of the rectangle type. For modern models it is the most typical. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, there are usually no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! That's where our modeling tips and patterns come in handy! Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Merlin Mo
nro or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself are what we strive for.

We chose just the right dress for the modeling lesson. We will need a pattern this time with a straight silhouette. The dress is sleeveless, loose-fitting with a counter pleat running from the neckline downwards, secured at the bottom to give the product an oval silhouette. Pockets can be made in the side seams.

Modeling takes place on the basic pattern of a dress with a straight silhouette, without darts. To begin with, let's get rid of the dart on the back, on the shelf we will add the depth of the fold, setting aside a distance of 12-15 cm from the middle of the part. Please note that at the top of the dress there is one counter fold, at the bottom there are two of them - one-sided, the depths are laid towards the side ones seams. The lines of the side seams are designed in such a way as to create an oval silhouette. This model should be long above the knee, otherwise there may be excessive narrowing at the bottom.

Well, our lesson has come to an end, we learned how to create simple dress patterns based on a basic pattern, ones that beginners can handle modeling and sewing, and we talked about body types. I think now you can please yourself with a new thing. Good luck and creative mood!

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Do you ever have situations when you want to create something that is not related to generally accepted standards? For example, have you dreamed of sewing clothes not according to ready-made patterns from a popular women's magazine, but according to your own pattern? If you have ever had such thoughts, it means that you are an extraordinary, creative person and it’s time for you to start modeling. What it is and how, for example, dress modeling happens, we will tell you in this article.

general information

Modeling is a process that allows you to modify the finished pattern at your own request. This also includes creating a pattern based on a photo or visual image, taking into account the replacement of some parts.

For example, you really liked the dress that your favorite movie star wore during the next awards ceremony. However, you know that the parameters of your figure are far from ideal, therefore, you need to perform dress modeling. This means that the clothing model you like can be modified to your liking or modeled taking into account your own physiological characteristics.

Basic concepts in modeling

When using modeling techniques, you can often come across the term “basic pattern”. What it is? This concept implies a universal pattern-pattern, on the basis of which you can create a new one that meets your requirements and figure. There are also such common and already familiar concepts to many as “joint”, “darts”, “seams”, “side cut”, “hip line”, etc.

Along with these concepts, new ones arise. For example, “tighten”, which involves removing excess edges and creating a kind of convex shape through wet-heat treatment. The word “stitch” means joining two pieces of suitable size using a machine stitch. All these concepts are worth knowing for those who are planning to sew or sew for children.

What are the main stages of modeling?

The entire modeling process can be divided into stages such as assessment and development of a future project, transfer of basic elements to fabric and joining of parts. This means that during the evaluation process, you must mentally divide the chosen model into separate parts, think about how to construct them together, taking into account the characteristics of your body. Then, you need to take measurements and correctly transfer them onto paper and fabric.

What methods of clothing modeling exist?

Currently, there are several methods for modeling clothing:

fake;
tattooing methods;
settlement;
proportional-calculated;
andropocentric and client-oriented.

Dummy method for modeling clothes

When designing and modeling clothes, one cannot help but remember such a wonderful method as the fake one. This is an excellent option for processing the selected shape of a product to display it in real size. At the same time, to create a form, you can use a variety of standard patterns and patterns, as well as an option with the construction of a design structure.

In addition, the dummy method is relevant for routine fittings during tailoring.

The “tattoo” method for modeling

The most ancient method, which was used by our grandmothers and great-great-grandmothers many centuries ago, is considered to be “tattooing”. It involves modeling and sewing clothes directly on a mannequin or person. This is done using pins and bobby pins.

What is a computational modeling method?

The calculation method is conventionally divided into four subtypes: proportional-calculation, calculation-analytical, client-based and calculation-graphical. When using these methods, as practice shows, the values of a conventionally typical figure corresponding to certain dimensions are used. In the future, based on this type, you can create patterns of other sizes.

The calculation and analytical method is based on the principles of constructing a drawing using geometric calculations.

What is the proportional calculation method?

Modeling a dress is impossible without correct calculations. Therefore, when sewing clothes, a proportional calculation method is often used, which has several “ramifications” of its own. In particular, it includes the version with the German cut of “Müller and Son”. It involves tailoring clothes according to a pattern designed for a standard European figure. Let us remind you that the European body type is a long back, medium-sized breasts, small hips and buttocks.

The second option, related to the proportional-calculation method, is called the Lin Jacques technique. It involves the construction of a basic framework corresponding to a conventionally standard figure. In this case, all information about a particular measurement can be found in a special table, which contains approximate designations. Thus, the tuck size for women with a chest volume of 80 cm corresponds to 6.5 cm.

When modeling a women's dress, we should not forget about the third version of the proportional-calculation method, called the method of the Russian Republican Fashion House. The main advantage of this option is its simplicity. This means that complex calculations and formulas are not used when creating a pattern.

What are client-oriented and andropocentric techniques?

You can also find customer-oriented and andropocentric tailoring techniques. As can be seen from these names, they are based on an individual approach when creating a particular image. This group also includes such methods as “Lubax”, “Cutting Genetics of Galia Zlachevskaya” and “Unimex”.

When creating dress patterns using the Lyubax method, horizontal and vertical lines are taken into account, and a certain standard is established for different types of figures. In addition, when creating a pattern, it is customary to take a certain pattern as a basis, the values of which are adjusted in accordance with the parameters of your body.

The “Cut Genetics of Galia Zlachevskaya” method is based on the principles of the so-called golden section. With its help, you can quite accurately create a pattern for a skirt or dress. “Unimex” assumes the simplest cutting and sewing technique, aimed at speedy work and focused on the individual characteristics of each client.

What rules should be taken into account when modeling?

If you want to easily create any dress patterns, you must follow three simple modeling rules. First, try to take measurements as accurately as possible. Secondly, to create a basic pattern and modify it at your own request, use the most accurate calculations. And finally, thirdly, do not forget to allow for a loose fit when creating the base pattern in accordance with your chosen dress silhouette.

How to transfer an image from a photo or image?

Let's assume you have already decided what kind of clothing design and modeling you will do. You chose a photo, visually assessed it and mentally guessed what kind of base pattern you need. What's next? Next, you need to transfer the image of your model onto tracing paper. What is needed for this?

To do this, draw a main line corresponding to the so-called midline of the shelf. In this case, take the following indicators as a guide:

jugular fossa;
the size of the middle between the two protruding areas of the chest;
the middle of the distance between the general details and the vertical decorative and structural lines of the selected image.

Then, when modeling the product, draw a transverse line on tracing paper that corresponds to the design marks of the drawn image. Let us remind you that these include the lines of the chest, hips, shoulders, knees and waist.

And it is with the help of these lines that when further designing the model, you can create a basic mesh, determine the depth of the neckline for the shelf, the height of the knee, chest and hips. Using the grid, you can then compare your actual dimensions and the dimensions of the image transferred to the tracing paper.

And of course, do not forget to write down all the data in a separate notebook or notepad.

Selecting and Creating a Basic Framework

Modeling a dress involves creating a basic pattern. We remind you that such a pattern is created according to taken measurements. Accordingly, the more accurate the measurements are, the better the dress will fit and fit your figure. Therefore, when taking measurements, do the following:

straighten up, stand straight;
take measurements taking into account the tummy (do not pull it in, as you will not be able to relax it in the finished product);
do not underestimate or increase the size of your chest and hips (otherwise you simply will not be able to wear such an outfit);
when creating dresses for plus-size people, take into account the increase in fit (it is better to take this data from the standard increase table);
Recheck your calculations and measurements several times.

In a word, be careful and don’t be lazy to review all your notes. This will save you from possible problems in the future.

How does the modeling process work?

In order to understand exactly how the modeling process occurs, we will give a specific example. We will take the pattern of a simple dress with long sleeves as a basis. We replace the darts with reliefs, and make the sleeves shorter and add cuffs. The new style of dress with cuffs is ready.

In the second case, we shorten the sleeves again and lower them to the limits of the shoulders and add a yoke above the chest. The result was a new dress model with a yoke and short sleeves. In the third case, you can again work with the sleeves and expose the shoulders by adding straps. Here we will add a seam at the waist.

In the fourth option, you can change the neckline to a V-shaped one, and add additional horizontal divisions at the bottom of the dress. The new model is ready.

How to create a pattern for obese people?

At the next stage, as a rule, a pattern is built. Let's say you are interested in a dress model for plus size, classic size 54. In this case, the increase will be only 3 cm, of which 0.5 cm is an increase to the back (its width), 1.5 cm to the width of the front part of the product, and 1 cm to the armhole itself. Next, we take measurements and begin to build a pattern.

Take a pencil and tracing paper. From its top, make a small indent (about 10-15 cm) to the left and mark point “A”. From it, move the vertical to the right and place a point “H” equal to the conditional length of your product. Next, draw the depth of the armhole. This is done like this: draw a line from point “A” down (taking into account an allowance of 0.5 cm for a loose fit) and place point “D”. In this case, this distance will be equal to 21 + 0.5 = 21.5 cm (where 21 is the actual measurement of the armhole depth in centimeters).

Next, modeling the dress involves determining the length of the back of the product (to the very line of your waist). In this case, a distance equal to the previously taken measurement is set aside from the starting point. For us it was 39 cm. Let’s put a point “T”. From point “T” we set the height of the hips down (also according to the measurement you made) and place point “L”. Then, from the created point, draw a horizontal line to the side. After this, all that remains is to determine the width of the back (taking into account the 0.5 cm increase), the size of the armhole, the side line of the product, the shoulder, the neckline, mark the auxiliary points of the armhole and correctly mark the dart locations in the resulting drawing. The modeling of skirts, trousers, shorts and other wardrobe items is done in the same way.

Where can you learn the basics of modeling and design?

The basics of modeling can be learned by completing training in highly specialized higher educational institutions of cutting, sewing and design. For example, you can contact the Textile Moscow University named after A. N. Kosygin. The faculty of clothing design, modeling, design, and applied arts works here, and practical classes are held using real fabrics from the fund of the state university museum. The approximate duration of study at this university will be about 5-6 years.

Alternatively, you can enroll in training at the Moscow University of Design and Technology. Here you can gain knowledge regarding the basics of sewing technology, management and economics, and master the basics of industrial ecology and chemical technology. The full duration of study at this state university is 6 years.

An interesting option is the British Higher School of Design, founded in 2003. It is located in Moscow and allows its students to receive knowledge and a British diploma without leaving the Russian Federation. There are such faculties as “Illustration and Graphic Design”, “Fashion Design”, etc. The duration of study at this university is 3-5.5 years and depends on the faculty you choose and the level of workload.

Is it worth taking a fashion design course?

And finally, it will be much faster and easier to learn how to come up with new clothing models if you enroll in modeling courses. The benefits are obvious. The duration of such training ranges from 1 to 12 months. Upon completion of the courses, you can receive a certificate, and sometimes find a job immediately.

For example, you can enroll in similar courses at the School of Art and Design, the duration of which is only 10 months. Interestingly, after completing your training, you will have a real fashion show of the clothes you created.

In addition to stationary cutting and sewing courses, you can sign up for virtual ones and take training online. For example, this can be done at Osinka. This is where distance learning in the basics of the “Tattooing” technique is carried out. The training course consists of 14-16 lessons containing videos and photo files.

You can also learn modeling at the Moscow School of Fashion Design, located on Varshavskoye Shosse. Here you will learn how to sew children's clothes, evening dresses, model and design products, and you will be able to take a short course in cutting and sewing.

In a word, if you wish, you can learn how to create any clothes, even non-standard sizes. And then modeling a skirt, blouse, trousers and any other item of clothing will become available to you.

Ready-made patterns are useful, but sometimes it’s difficult to use them to realize an unusual idea, your own idea, and sew a dress “like in a magazine.” In this case, it is necessary to model a new drawing, taking the base one as a basis. This will allow you to sew the product according to your parameters.

Dress modeling is the process of changing a finished drawing or creating a new one based on a visual image of clothing (from a magazine, from a catwalk). The style is altered to suit the body type so that the sewn item fits well and suits the body type and body type. A striking example is the modification of a straight dress or a classic “sheath”. Using their base pattern, you can widen the hem, add sleeves, move the waist line, and make additional darts if the difference between the waist and hips is large.

In all cases of modeling, the term “basic pattern” is used. This is a universal template based on which a new one is created that meets the requirements and wishes of the master.

Individual products are modeled following the sequence of steps:

model development - adjusting the basic pattern or creating a new one;
design of parts and methods of connecting them;
taking measurements;
transferring measurements onto paper and then onto fabric.

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Modeling techniques

There are several well-researched, “working” methods for creating custom items. Using one of them, you can easily model the product you need. The traditional method is “tattooing”. This is an ancient technique in which the product is modeled and sewn on a mannequin or directly on a human figure. Tattooing is done with pins and invisible threads.

An equally simple method is the fake one. It allows you to process the shape of the finished product and display it in the desired size. For modeling, they use standardized patterns, work on a base pattern, or build a design design. The method is widely used when trying on things during tailoring.

The most common method is computational modeling. Using it, a pattern of the required size is created on the basis of a conventional standard drawing. The drawing is built according to geometric calculations. There are several directions within the method:

proportional-calculated;
calculation and analytical;
calculation and graphic;
customer-oriented.

First of all, the famous “Müller” method is considered. It involves sewing things with a long back, medium chest and narrow hips. Also included in the calculations is the Lin Jacques method for a conventionally standard figure with special tables for measurement. And a version developed in the Russian Republican House of Models. It is simple - formulas and lengthy calculations are not needed to create patterns.

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Customer-focused techniques are based on a desire for individualization.

“Lubax” - taking into account horizontal and vertical lines, setting standards for figures of a certain type and choosing patterns, the value of which is adjusted according to body parameters.
“Unimex” is the simplest, fastest method of sewing according to the characteristics of a particular person’s body.
“Genetics of G. Zlachevskaya’s cut” - sewing dresses according to the “golden ratio” principle.

Start of simulation

Before modeling a summer, warm or evening dress, you need to measure your body parameters as accurately as possible and calculate the numbers to finalize the base drawing. We must not forget about the allowance for freedom of fit - they depend on the chosen silhouette, style and type of fabric (elastic, thin, dense).

If you are sewing a dress from a photo, you need to understand what kind of base you will need. Then transfer its details onto tracing paper using the standard sequence of actions.
Draw the main axis in your drawing - this is the middle line of the shelf. To construct it, focus on the jugular fossa on the torso, on the center between the most protruding points of the chest, on the midpoints between the vertical lines of the structure.
Draw perpendiculars along the design points - these are the lines of the chest, hips, shoulders and waist (plus the knee if the dress is elongated).
Construct a basic grid that takes into account the depth of the neckline, the height of the hip and chest, and the knee line.

Having created a grid, you can compare conditional dimensions with real “dimensions”. The base is designed according to measurements taken from the body. The more accurate they are, the better the item will fit. When taking measurements, you need to stand straight, do not slouch, or pull in your stomach.

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Dart modeling options

Most often, during the process of pattern changes, breast darts are transferred. The shape of the shoulders and chest is very individual, and you need to determine the location of the point anew each time. The dart is moved to the lower side corner of the bodice - to the mark of the intersection of the side cut and the waist line. The top of this corner needs to be connected to the bottom corner on the bust dart. You will get a line for “opening” the pattern. In this case, the original darts are closed and the individual sketch can be transferred to the fabric.

The bust dart can be moved lower. To do this, in the drawing of the bodice, the waist dart is connected (at the corner) with the lower corner of the dart on the chest (it is designated by the top of G8). The upper element closes, and the lower element opens completely. To transfer the dart into a cut on the side, you need to divide the base in two or three, depending on the style. The dot placed will be the beginning of a new element. It needs to be connected by a line to the top of G8, cut and closed. The modified pattern for the side cut dart should end 1.5-2 cm from G8.

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The basic bust dart can also be moved to other locations.

In the cut of the armhole. It is divided in two or three, and the division point is connected to G8 - you can create a curved relief by outlining a smooth curve and closing the chest opening on a dart or corner, lowering the line from G8 to the waist.
Shoulder cut. It is also divided into 2 or 3 parts, a straight line is drawn from the resulting point to the waist dart, and the chest dart is cut and closed.
Neck cut. Its line is divided into two or three, the points are connected to G8. And the connecting axis is cut and transferred - the cutout will form soft gathers.
Center of the front panel (on the gathered bodice). From G8 you need to build a perpendicular to the middle of the front, make a cut along it and transfer the dart, draping the gathers.
Armhole undercut. You will need to draw a perpendicular similar to the line from the previous point, then fix the dart at the waist and fix part of the top (for example, with pins), and form the remaining solution into small gathers.
Under the yoke from the armhole. The upper part of the bodice is cut completely (and not partly, as in the previous version) and a yoke is formed.

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Modeling dresses based on the sheath style

It is often necessary to adjust the base of a sheath dress when there is a strong difference in girths at the waist and hips. For a pear-type figure, you can narrow the bottom of the basic pattern (as when sewing a pencil skirt), accentuating the shoulders and top. Contrasting inserts, a boat neck, a large, voluminous collar or a decorated neckline are suitable. A slightly high waist also visually corrects the figure, but you need to be careful when narrowing the skirt. If the difference between the chest and hips is significant, the bottom should be slightly wider.

It should be remembered that:

model relief lines run from the armholes to the very bottom along the darts at the waist;
the middle line of the back should fit well - transfer part of the solution to it;
if the difference between the hips and the waist is large, the openings when fitting exceed 3.5 cm, the darts are divided into two, otherwise there will be unsightly creases in the waist.

The skirt can be modified by cutting at the waist. The “tulip” style is formed by two opposing folds along the front (from the end of the waist darts the part is cut vertically downwards), and a cut is made on the panel at the back. A cut-off dress with an extended skirt can be modeled by re-drawing the line along the front neckline. Next, you need to move the waist dart to the side, draw a half-sun on the skirt and make a neckline and an armhole on the back side of the bodice, connecting them to the front.

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Modeling on straight dresses

On a straight or loose silhouette, you can model a style with an extension of the skirt at the bottom - A-shaped.

The side cuts are made straight, and the bust darts are moved to the seam on the side. In detail you need to outline the yoke along the front. If the model does not have sleeves, you can make two lower one-sided folds and one counter fold, from the neck to the bottom. The darts along the back are removed, and on the shelf it is necessary to add depth along the fold (12-15 cm are set aside from the middle). Such models are most often sewn above the knee length, otherwise they turn out to be excessively narrowed at the bottom. Pockets are often cut into the side seams.

You can model individual dresses not only by transferring darts. For example, by replacing them with relief, you can make a new item from a basic pattern with long sleeves with cuffs, a “lowered” shoulder, straps or a yoke above the chest. Cutouts are also often changed - a V-shaped neck is made from a round neck. By changing the base, you can sew many beautiful and unique dresses for all occasions.